{"id":515,"date":"2023-02-07T10:25:31","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T08:25:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=515"},"modified":"2023-02-14T05:02:07","modified_gmt":"2023-02-14T03:02:07","slug":"515","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/07\/515\/","title":{"rendered":"Cea mai veche re\u021bet\u0103 de sarmale (anul 782 idh)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

l-am rugat pe amicul meu Paul Agopian, buc\u0103tar armean, s\u0103 scrie c\u00e2teva informa\u021bii despre povestea sarmalelor armene\u0219ti, \u021bar\u0103 de unde, cel mai probabil, vine \u0219i cea mai veche re\u021bet\u0103 a acestui preparat:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201eIstorie<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La armeni se nume\u0219te Tolma. \u00cen trecutul \u00eendep\u0103rtat era un fel de m\u00e2ncare care se prepara la anumite s\u0103rb\u0103tori, nun\u021bi, \u00eenmorm\u00e2nt\u0103ri \u0219i de Anul Nou. Treptat a devenit un preparat obi\u0219nuit ce se consum\u0103 destul de frecvent \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103riile armenilor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unii lingvi\u0219ti sus\u021bin c\u0103 Tolma este un cuv\u00e2nt care are la baz\u0103 dou\u0103 r\u0103d\u0103cini lingvistice urartiene \u201etoli\u201d care \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201efrunz\u0103 de vi\u021ba de vie\u201d \u0219i \u201ema\u201d care \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201e\u00eenvelit\u201d- Tolma \u00eensemn\u00e2nd \u201e\u00eenvelit \u00een vi\u021b\u0103 de vie\u201d. Regatul Urartu (sec.XIII \u2013XI IdH) a fost constituit \u00een Epoca Fierului \u0219i era localizat \u00een zona Lacului Van \u0219i a \u00cen\u0103l\u021bimilor Armene, urartienii fiind considera\u021bi str\u0103mo\u0219ii armenilor. De-a lungul timpului au fost scoase la lumin\u0103 o mul\u021bime de  vestigii privind cultivarea vi\u021bei de vie \u00een acest areal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen zona Areni, la 60 km de Muntele Ararat, considerat locul unde s-a oprit Arca lui Noe, a fost descoperit cel mai vechi atelier de prepararea vinului, av\u00e2nd o vechime de 6100 de ani. Se spune c\u0103 aici ar fi f\u0103cut Noe primul popas dup\u0103 potop \u0219i ar fi plantat primele vi\u021be de vie. \u00cen antichitate a existat \u00een Yerevan o renumit\u0103 gr\u0103din\u0103, se numea Gr\u0103dina Dalma, care era de fapt o podgorie cu soiuri str\u0103vechi de vi\u021b\u0103 de vie ce se spunea c\u0103 ar fi fost plantate de \u00eensu\u0219i Noe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen muzeele din Armenia se afl\u0103 multe men\u021biuni \u0219i chiar re\u021bete despre Tolma p\u0103strate \u00een scrieri cuneiforme. De exemplu, Erebuni Tolma, o re\u021bet\u0103 p\u0103strat\u0103 la muzeul Erebuni din Yerevan, dat\u00e2nd din anul 782 IdH. Aceasta se prepara din carne de pui, ciuperci, br\u00e2nz\u0103 Tel Banir(este un fel tradi\u021bional de br\u00e2nz\u0103 ca o fr\u00e2nghie \u00eempletit\u0103 care se desface \u00een f\u00e2\u0219ii sub\u021biri ca firele de p\u0103r) \u0219i nuci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tot aici, putem men\u021biona Taron Tolma, dupa a\u0219ezarea cu acela\u0219i nume, un preparat popular la curtea dinastiei regale Mamigonian (sec.IV-VIII), preparat din limb\u0103 de vit\u0103, servit\u0103 cu sos de cire\u0219e. De asemenea Bayazet Tolma preparat din orez, morcov, ciuperci \u0219i usturoi, servit cu sos de vi\u0219ine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mod de preparare<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Se folosesc la \u00eempachetarea umpluturii o multitudine de frunze: vi\u021b\u0103 de vie, frunze verzi de fasole \u00een regiunea Artsakh, frunze de zmeura \u00een regiunea Tavush \u0219i Sevan, frunze de gutui, frunze de sfecl\u0103, flori nefecundate de dovleac, \u00een regiunea Lori,  mai rar, frunze de urzic\u0103 sau salat\u0103 verde. Ca mirodenii se folosesc busuioc, m\u0103rar, oregano, tarhon, ment\u0103, ierburi aromatice locale. De cele mai multe ori versiunile vegetariene sunt servite al\u0103turi felii de lam\u00e2ie \u0219i sos de iaurt cu usturoi. De regula, Tolma vegetariene se preparau \u00een trecut \u00een timpul posturilor religioase, pentru ca \u00een perioada modern\u0103 s\u0103 devin\u0103 feluri obi\u0219nuite de m\u00e2ncare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen general, Tolma la armeni se ruleaz\u0103 sub form\u0103 cilindric\u0103, cu capetele \u00eenchise, sunt \u00eens\u0103 \u0219i cazuri \u00een care umplutura se ruleaza \u00een foaia respectiv\u0103, in general la varz\u0103, capetele r\u0103m\u00e2n\u00e2nd deschise. \u00cen acest caz, \u00een oal\u0103 se pune o farfurie cu gura \u00een jos pentru ca acestea sa nu se deschid\u0103 \u00een timpul fierberii. Alteori, mai rar, se modeleaz\u0103 sub forma unor mici boccelute ovale, aplatizate sau mici spirale, pentru cele \u00eenvelite \u00een foi de vi\u021b\u0103 de vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tipuri<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/strong>Pasust Tolma <\/strong>\u2013 este un fel vegetarian ce se preg\u0103te\u0219te mai ales \u00een perioada posturilor, av\u00e2nd \u0219i o semnifica\u021bie ritualic\u0103, umplutura fiind alc\u0103tuit\u0103 din \u0219apte feluri de boabe (n\u0103ut, fasole, linte, bulgur, maz\u0103re, orez, porumb) simboliz\u00e2nd numarul perfec\u021biunii divine. Este unul dintre pu\u021binele feluri la care se folosesc foile de varz\u0103 murat\u0103 despre care se spune ca au un rol benefic asupra sistemului digestiv. Pentru versiunile de Tolma care con\u021bin carne, se folosesc de regul\u0103 foi de varza crud\u0103 oparit\u0103 \u00een ap\u0103 cu sare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yerevan Tolma<\/strong> (Tolma ca la Yerevan) \u2013 morcovi, cartofi, gutui, orez \u2013 rulate \u00een foi de varz\u0103 crud\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kaghambi Tolma <\/strong>\u2013  se prepar\u0103 din carne de oaie sau vit\u0103, orez, verde\u021buri \u0219i mirodenii (coriandru, m\u0103rar, ment\u0103, piper \u0219i scor\u021bi\u0219oar\u0103), rulate \u00een foi de varz\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tpov Tolma<\/strong> \u2013 carne porc\/vit\u0103, verde\u021buri, orez, rulate \u00een foi de vi\u021b\u0103, la fiert se pun \u0219i prune uscate. Sunt servite cu felii de lam\u00e2ie \u0219i sos de iaurt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tolma cu orez<\/strong> \u2013 specific\u0103 regiunii Dilijan \u2013 orez, verde\u021buri, mirodenii \u2013 \u00een foi de vi\u021b\u0103. Se servesc stropite cu ulei de m\u0103sline, lam\u00e2ie \u0219i sos de iaurt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dzetov Tolma<\/strong> \u2013 doar orez \u0219i ulei, \u00eenvelite \u00een foi de vi\u021b\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mush Tolma <\/strong>\u2013 carne tocat\u0103 porc, vit\u0103, oaie \u0219i bulgur \u2013 \u00eenvelite \u00een foi de vi\u021b\u0103<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ishkhan Tolma<\/strong> \u2013 \u00een zona lacului Sevan se prepar\u0103 din carnea unei specii endemice de p\u0103strav care tr\u0103ieste \u00een acest lac sau cu carne de raci \u0219i, se \u00eenvelesc \u00een frunze de cap\u0219uni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thal Tolma<\/strong> \u2013 un tip de Tolma f\u0103cut cu Ghavurma, carne de oaie g\u0103tit\u0103 \u00een grasimea proprie (cum este sloiul de oaie \u00een Muntenia). Aceasta carne se amestec\u0103 cu bulgur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alashkert <\/strong>T<\/strong>olma<\/strong> \u2013 Tolma cu c\u00e2nep\u0103 \u2013 un fel destul de ciudat \u0219i rar chiar \u0219i pentru armeni. Are un proces de complicat de preparare \u2013 boabele de c\u00e2nep\u0103 se macin\u0103 sau se dau prin ma\u0219ina de tocat, toc\u0103tura se amesteca cu ulei, ceapa \u0219i Urtz (asem\u0103n\u0103tor cu cimbru) p\u00e2n\u0103 se ob\u021bine o past\u0103 dens\u0103 \u00eenchis\u0103 la culoare, se \u00eenvelesc \u00een foi de varz\u0103 murat\u0103. Se fierb \u00eentr-un sos asem\u0103n\u0103tor cu Tahine, pasta de susan f\u0103cut tot din boabe de c\u00e2nep\u0103 m\u0103cinate \u0219i strecurate. Se spune c\u0103 sunt foarte gusoase. Este specific vechilor familii din zona Alashkert, provincie din vestul Armeniei. Acest tip de Tolma se gate\u0219te \u00een Vinerea Mare dinaintea Pa\u0219telui sau c\u00e2nd afar\u0103 este vreme rece. Tradi\u021bia spune c\u0103 oala cu Tolma trebuie s\u0103 stea pe masa c\u00e2teva zile la rand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen zilele noastre<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cencep\u00e2nd din anul 2011 se organizeaz\u0103 \u00een diferite regiuni ale Armeniei un festival anual dedicat acestui preparat. Particip\u0103 o multime de buc\u0103tari de la marile restaurante din \u021bar\u0103 \u0219i amatori. Se prezint\u0103 re\u021bete vechi mo\u0219tenite din familii, dar \u0219i abordari proprii, reinterpret\u0103ri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La festivalul din anul 2013 a fost organizat un concurs, c\u00e2\u0219tig\u0103torul reu\u0219ind s\u0103 ruleze cea mai lung\u0103 Tolma \u00een foaie de vi\u021b\u0103, aceasta av\u00e2nd 7 metri lungime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La festivalul din 2017 au fost prezentate aproape 60 de feluri de Tolma, iar recordul pentru cea mai lung\u0103 Tolma a fost de 60,44 metri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen anul 2019 a fost stabilit un record Guinnes pentru cea mai lung\u0103 Tolma din lume, aceasta m\u0103sur\u00e2nd 100 de metri. De asemenea, num\u0103rul versiunilor prezentate este \u00een cre\u0219tere de la o edi\u021bie la alta, \u00een 2019 s-au prezentat spre jurizare peste 70 de tipuri de Tolma, una dintre ele fiind montat\u0103 pe o frig\u0103ruie \u0219i preparat\u0103 pe jar\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

credit foto: armeniadiscovery.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

l-am rugat pe amicul meu Paul Agopian, buc\u0103tar armean, s\u0103 scrie c\u00e2teva informa\u021bii despre povestea sarmalelor armene\u0219ti, \u021bar\u0103 de unde, cel mai probabil, vine \u0219i cea mai veche re\u021bet\u0103 a acestui preparat: \u201eIstorie La armeni se nume\u0219te Tolma. \u00cen trecutul \u00eendep\u0103rtat era un fel de m\u00e2ncare care se prepara la anumite s\u0103rb\u0103tori, nun\u021bi, \u00eenmorm\u00e2nt\u0103ri \u0219i […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":517,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-515","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-enciclopedia-sarmalelor","category-general"],"yoast_head":"\nCea mai veche re\u021bet\u0103 de sarmale (anul 782 idh) - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/07\/515\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cea mai veche re\u021bet\u0103 de sarmale (anul 782 idh) - 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