{"id":815,"date":"2023-02-26T08:34:37","date_gmt":"2023-02-26T06:34:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=815"},"modified":"2023-02-27T04:21:40","modified_gmt":"2023-02-27T02:21:40","slug":"balcanii-gastronomici-si-nu-numai-povestiti-de-oameni-tare-faini-azi-cezar-ioan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/26\/balcanii-gastronomici-si-nu-numai-povestiti-de-oameni-tare-faini-azi-cezar-ioan\/","title":{"rendered":"Balcanii gastronomici \u0219i nu numai, povesti\u021bi de oameni tare faini. Azi, Cezar Ioan despre Grecia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u00cen urm\u0103 cu mul\u021bi ani, la examenul de capacitate, la proba de geografie, la \u00eentrebarea unde e situate Rom\u00e2nia un elev a r\u0103spuns: \u201c\u021aara noastr\u0103 pitoreasc\u0103 este situat\u0103 la nord de Bulgaria\u201d. Este, poate, una dintre cele mai simpatice \u201cperle\u201d \u0219col\u0103re\u0219ti, dar care poate fi totodat\u0103 ieslea unor dezbateri importante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Geografic, doar 5% din teritoriul Rom\u00e2niei (teritoriul dobrogean de sub Dun\u0103re \u0219i de sub bra\u021bul Sf\u00e2ntul Gheorghe) sunt \u00een Balcani. Dar \u00eens\u0103\u0219i stabilirea delimit\u0103rilor Peninsulei Balcanice r\u0103m\u00e2ne un subiect controversat, iar dac\u0103 bolduirea unor grani\u021be pe hart\u0103 este o munc\u0103 ce necesit\u0103 precizie, limitarea unui concept precum balcanismul nu poate fi \u00eengr\u0103dit de frontierele conven\u021bionale. Tot 5% \u0219i din teritoriul Turciei (partea vestic\u0103 ce include centrul istoric al Istanbulului sau Edirne \u2013 fostul Adrianopol) apar\u021bin Balcanilor. Dar sunt ei balcanici sau orientali? 23% din teritoriul Serbiei, cel de la nord de Dun\u0103re nu este \u00een Balcani, dar este Banatul S\u00e2rbesc balcanic ori ba? Dar noi?<\/p>\n\n\n

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Balkans Map \u00a9 Dm Stock Production | Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Balcanii sunt problematici, pestri\u021bi, orgolio\u0219i, savuro\u0219i, splendizi. Sunt orientali \u0219i occidentali deopotriv\u0103, dar quelque choseul lor e simplu: sunt balcanici, nici prea orientali, nici foarte occidentali. Normal, la extremit\u0103\u021bi generaliz\u0103rile se estompeaz\u0103 \u0219i apartenen\u021ba trage spre alte \u00eencadr\u0103ri culturalo \u2013 geografice. Balcanii sunt mediteraneeani \u0219i dun\u0103reni, sunt ortodoc\u0219i, catolici, iudaici \u0219i musulmani. Le sare \u021band\u0103ra repede, dar te po\u021bi baza pe ei. Sunt ospitalieri \u0219i tovar\u0103\u0219i buni. Sunt cafengii \u0219i vicia\u021bi, sunt vis\u0103tori \u0219i na\u021bionali\u0219ti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este buc\u0103t\u0103ria rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 balcanic\u0103?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balcanii, numi\u021bi mult timp butoiul cu pulbere al Europei ar putea fi ceaunul cu sarmale, jum\u0103ri sau ciorb\u0103 al b\u0103tr\u00e2nului continent. Gr\u0103tarul cu mici, cevapi ori kebaburi din aceast\u0103 parte de lume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

F\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 avem preten\u021bia de a r\u0103spunde la o \u00eentrebare, cred eu, definitorie pentru noi: este buc\u0103t\u0103ria rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 balcanic\u0103\/ c\u00e2t de balcanic\u0103 este buc\u0103t\u0103ria rom\u00e2neasc\u0103?, dar \u00eencerc\u00e2nd s\u0103 identific\u0103m m\u00e2ncarea care ne une\u0219te \u0219i\/sau desparte, jurnalistul Cristian Iohan \u0218tef\u0103nescu \u0219i cu mine am plecat anul acesta \u00eentr-o expedi\u021bie de peste o sut\u0103 de zile (defalcat\u0103) prin toate \u021b\u0103rile balcanice, cu g\u00e2ndul de a creiona un studiu de gastronomie regional\u0103 comparat\u0103. Dar p\u00e2n\u0103 atunci am invitat c\u00e2\u021biva oameni tare faini s\u0103 ne povesteasc\u0103 despre balcanii lor gastronomici.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\u00cempreun\u0103 cu Cezar la lansarea c\u0103r\u021bii Curatorul de Zacusc\u0103 \u0219i alte povestiri culinare rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Cezar Ioan<\/a> (vinul.ro<\/a>) este \u201cpartenerul meu de crime\u201d \u2013 a\u0219a cum ne alint\u0103m reciproc – \u00een cele mai multe proiecte enogastronomice. Am ini\u021biat demersul care a dus la declararea Zilei Na\u021bionale a Gastronomiei \u0219i Vinurilor din Rom\u00e2nia, am organizat zeci de evenimente de profil, ne-am scris zeci de mii de cuvinte, \u00een creierii dimine\u021bilor ultimilor ani, pe whatsapp \u0219i am \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit nenum\u0103rate beri \u0219i sticle cu vin. Nu \u00een ultimul r\u00e2nd, am savurat ouzo \u0219i mai ales retsina pe plaj\u0103 \u00een Grecia, b\u0103utur\u0103 despre care \u0219i aminte\u0219te mai jos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P.S. cur\u00e2nd relu\u0103m newsletterul enogastronomic \u201cRecomandat de curator & connoisseur & friend\u201d la care v\u0103 pute\u021bi abona aici<\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n

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Retsina \u00a9 Uladzimir Zuyeu | Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cPrivind \u00eenapoi cu pelin\u201d cum \u201cDuios o \u0219ans\u0103 trecea\u201d<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pu\u021bine b\u0103uturi m-au fascinat \u00een ultimii ani ca pelinul (bine, asta dup\u0103 ce am fost martor la \u201cr\u0103zboiul maghiaro-rom\u00e2n al p\u0103lincilor\u201d, unde \u00een 2007 am fost nevoit s\u0103 admit c\u0103 vecinii – ne-balcanici, da, Cosmin! – o au mai bun\u0103). M\u0103 uit de ani de zile la pelin ca la filme – de-aici \u0219i referin\u021bele din titlu la numele a dou\u0103 celebre vechi pelicule cinematografice.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Practic, pelinul \u0219i soarta lui crud\u0103 m\u0103 dor: dintru \u00eenceput \u0219i ca urmare a unor cerin\u021be insuficient judecate de c\u0103tre reprezentan\u021bii asocia\u021biilor de produc\u0103tori, legislatorul rom\u00e2n a impus ni\u0219te condi\u021bii fiscale \u0219i tehnologice aberante (acredit\u0103ri ca pentru spirtoase \u0219i un minim de zah\u0103r rezidual obligatoriu care-l trimitea \u00een sfera dulceg\u0103riilor amare pu\u021bin \u201ccleioase\u201d \u0219i-i anula bun\u0103 parte din tonicitatea care-l define\u0219te); ulterior, pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce primii doi produc\u0103tori curajo\u0219i au demonstrat c\u0103 publicul are un apetit s\u0103n\u0103tos pentru aceast\u0103 b\u0103utur\u0103, situa\u021bia ei a fost cumva relaxat\u0103 de legiuitor (\u00een privin\u021ba zah\u0103rului, nu \u0219i a dosarelor de autorizare, care r\u0103m\u00e2n de co\u0219mar). M-a fascinat, ziceam, \u00een special v\u0103z\u00e2nd c\u00e2t de bine st\u0103 treaba cu o b\u0103utur\u0103 oarecum asem\u0103n\u0103toare a vecinilor \u201cgre\u021bi\u201d – retsina: tot pe baz\u0103 de vin, dar aromatizat\u0103 cu r\u0103\u0219in\u0103 de pin, \u00een loc de Artemisia Absinthium, ca \u00een cazul nostru (sau al bulgarilor). La ei, la greci, g\u0103se\u0219ti c\u00e2teva op\u021biuni de retsina \u00een orice meniu de locant\u0103 sau metri \u00eentregi de rafturi cu diferite branduri \u00een supermarketuri, la sticl\u0103 de jum\u0103tate sau trei sferturi de litru, la PET sau la bag-in-box, cu pre\u021buri pornind de la 3 euro \u0219i merg\u00e2nd p\u00e2n\u0103 la 20, \u00een cazul celor mai elevate produse. La noi, produc\u0103torii de vin \u00een\u0219i\u0219i v\u0103d pelinul ca pe o Cenu\u0219\u0103reasc\u0103 – dar nu una care ar putea deveni prin\u021bes\u0103, ci care nu poate avea nici mintea, nici \u00eensu\u0219irile fizice \u0219i nici norocul de a sc\u0103pa de soarta crud\u0103 pe care tot ei i-au rezervat-o. A\u0219a c\u0103 – \u00een timp ce elenii se bucur\u0103 s\u0103 v\u00e2nd\u0103 probabil zeci de milioane de sticle de retsina anual \u0219i s\u0103 fac\u0103 din ea un produs tradi\u021bional, puternic diferen\u021biat \u0219i, deci, unic, \u0219i s\u0103 se duc\u0103 la banc\u0103 r\u00e2z\u00e2nd la final de an – noi r\u0103m\u00e2ne s\u0103 batem m\u0103runt \u0219i vag superior din buze \u0219i s\u0103 ignor\u0103m c\u0103 \u0219i pelinul ar putea fi o parte dintr-o experien\u021b\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 ce ar putea sta, bine-mersi, sub marea umbrel\u0103 a unui eventual \u201cbrand de \u021bar\u0103\u201d. Care brand, oricum, nu e v\u0103zut ca un ansamblu de valori, ci doar ca un logo pe care \u00eenc\u0103 a\u0219tept\u0103m s\u0103 vin\u0103 cineva \u201cs\u0103 ni-l fac\u0103\u201d \u0219i \u201cs\u0103 ni se dea\u201d\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

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Retsina \u00a9 David Fowler | Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Credit foto principal\u0103: Ouzo<\/a> \u00a9 George Tsartsianidis<\/a> | Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00cen urm\u0103 cu mul\u021bi ani, la examenul de capacitate, la proba de geografie, la \u00eentrebarea unde e situate Rom\u00e2nia un elev a r\u0103spuns: \u201c\u021aara noastr\u0103 pitoreasc\u0103 este situat\u0103 la nord de Bulgaria\u201d. Este, poate, una dintre cele mai simpatice \u201cperle\u201d \u0219col\u0103re\u0219ti, dar care poate fi totodat\u0103 ieslea unor dezbateri importante. Geografic, doar 5% din teritoriul […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":829,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[39,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-815","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-balkanic-tastes","category-general"],"yoast_head":"\nBalcanii gastronomici \u0219i nu numai, povesti\u021bi de oameni tare faini. Azi, Cezar Ioan despre Grecia - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/26\/balcanii-gastronomici-si-nu-numai-povestiti-de-oameni-tare-faini-azi-cezar-ioan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Balcanii gastronomici \u0219i nu numai, povesti\u021bi de oameni tare faini. Azi, Cezar Ioan despre Grecia - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00cen urm\u0103 cu mul\u021bi ani, la examenul de capacitate, la proba de geografie, la \u00eentrebarea unde e situate Rom\u00e2nia un elev a r\u0103spuns: \u201c\u021aara noastr\u0103 pitoreasc\u0103 este situat\u0103 la nord de Bulgaria\u201d. 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