{"id":1263,"date":"2023-11-05T07:49:06","date_gmt":"2023-11-05T05:49:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=1263"},"modified":"2023-11-05T07:49:07","modified_gmt":"2023-11-05T05:49:07","slug":"adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/","title":{"rendered":"Adriana Sohodoleanu, un fel de postfa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

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Volumul\u00a0Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare\u00a0<\/em>este disponibil pentru precomand\u0103 \u0219i ajunge la dumneavoastr\u0103 \u00een prima jum\u0103tate a lunii decembrie. Pute\u021bi\u00a0precomanda cartea aici<\/a>. P\u00e2n\u0103 atunci pute\u021bi citi postfa\u021ba (numit\u0103 de noi „cuv\u00e2ntul de dup\u0103”) al acestui volum scris\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen cuv\u00e2ntul-\u00eenainte, Cosmin Dragomir ne spune c\u0103 nu este corect s\u0103 \u00eencepi un text cu o nega\u021bie. Un sfat bun \u0219i totodat\u0103 un prilej excelent pentru aceast\u0103 fraz\u0103-artificiu care \u00eemi permite s\u0103 afirm o nega\u021bie f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 \u00eencalc regulile stilisticii. A\u0219adar nu am fost niciodat\u0103 cu adev\u0103rat boga\u021bi \u00een literatur\u0103 culinar\u0103. Nu c\u0103 nu s-ar fi scris \u2013 voi umple urm\u0103toarele dou\u0103-trei pagini cu titluri \u0219i autori preocupa\u021bi de subiect. Vi se vor p\u0103rea multe \u0219i mult \u0219i nici nu sunt to\u021bi, din ra\u021biuni de spa\u021biu \u0219i poten\u021bial de plictiseal\u0103 am renun\u021bat la destui. Ve\u021bi spune c\u0103 teoria mea nu st\u0103 \u00een picioare \u0219i a\u021bi putea avea dreptate, dar citi\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 la final \u0219i poate v\u0103 conving de ce este nevoie de \u00eenc\u0103 o carte despre m\u00e2ncare.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\u00cencepem deci regulamentar cu primele noastre c\u0103r\u021bi de bucate tip\u0103rite (manuscrisele din secolele XVI-XVII au circula\u021bie restr\u00e2ns\u0103 \u0219i ne facem c\u0103 nu conteaz\u0103, v-am zis c\u0103 nu vreau s\u0103 v\u0103 plictisesc prea tare). Prima apare a\u0219adar \u00een 1695 \u0219i este \u00een maghiar\u0103; a doua, \u00een 1841 \u0219i e \u00een chirilic\u0103; C\u0103rticica meseriei de buc\u0103tar<\/em> nu are autor oficial, dar creditul merge c\u0103tre Sofia Tofeus. Pe cealalt\u0103 o scriu moldovenii Kog\u0103lniceanu \u0219i Negruzzi, care \u00eens\u0103 ini\u021bial nu o semneaz\u0103, jena\u021bi \u0219i con\u0219tien\u021bi c\u0103 doi boieri, b\u0103rba\u021bi \u0219i cu studii la Paris care se \u00eendeletnicesc cu \u201e200 de re\u021bete cercate de bucate, pr\u0103jituri \u0219i alte trebi gospod\u0103re\u0219ti\u201d nu vor atrage priviri binevoitoare. Este totu\u0219i epoca unor mari schimb\u0103ri politice \u0219i sociale, revolu\u021bia bate la u\u0219a, femeile arboreaz\u0103 d\u00e9collet\u00e9<\/em>-uri fran\u021buzite, tinerii, haine str\u00e2mte nem\u021be\u0219ti, a\u0219a c\u0103 cei doi autori se r\u0103zg\u00e2ndesc repede \u0219i \u00ee\u0219i asum\u0103 paternitatea, con\u0219tien\u021bi, \u0219ti\u021bi deja, c\u0103 vor face \u201erevolu\u021bie stra\u0219nic\u0103 \u00een modul de a face frig\u0103nele \u0219i g\u0103lu\u0219te\u201d \u0219i sper\u00e2nd c\u0103 viitorimea \u00eei va recunoa\u0219te m\u0103car ca \u201eintroduc\u0103torii artei culinare \u00een Moldova\u201d. \u00cen aceast\u0103 atmosfer\u0103 de occidentalizare \u00een regim de urgen\u021b\u0103, cartea culinar\u0103 pune \u0219i ea o c\u0103r\u0103mid\u0103 la temelia noii societ\u0103\u021bi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu mult dup\u0103 ei, \u00een 1846, tot \u00een Moldova, Manolache Dr\u0103ghici, postelnic \u0219i, se zice, \u201eultimul cronicar al Moldovei\u201d, traduce Re\u021bete cercate \u00een num\u0103r de 500 din buc\u0103t\u0103ria cea mare a lui Robert, \u00eent\u00e2iul buc\u0103tar al Cur\u021bii Fran\u021biei, potrivit pentru toate st\u0103rile<\/em>. \u00cen \u021aara Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103, premiera revine unei femei, Maria Maurer, care scoate, \u00een mai multe edi\u021bii, o carte de bucate care \u201ecoprinde 190 r\u0103\u021bete de bucate, pr\u0103jitur\u012d, creme, spume, jalatine, \u00eenge\u021bate, \u0219i cum se p\u0103streaz\u0103 lucrur\u012d pentru iarn\u0103. Toate alese \u0219i \u00eencercate de o prietin\u0103 a tutulor femeilor celor casnice\u201d. Cosmin Dragomir o include pe autoare, a\u0219a cum a\u021bi citit deja, \u00een galeria marilor doamne ale gastronomiei rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Din acest moment, domni \u0219i doamne, oameni din p\u0103tura de mijloc a societ\u0103\u021bii se apleac\u0103 asupra subiectului \u0219i vor tip\u0103ri \u00een urm\u0103toarea sut\u0103 de ani suficient de multe c\u0103r\u021bi de bucate ca ast\u0103zi s\u0103 le consider\u0103m activitatea efervescent\u0103, a\u0219a cum a fost, de altfel \u00eentregul secol al XIX-lea \u0219i prima parte a celui care i-a urmat. O stare febril\u0103 caracterizeaz\u0103 epoca, un spirit revolu\u021bionar care cuprinde totul; \u00een definitiv, Revolu\u021bia Industrial\u0103 arat\u0103 un viitor \u00een care, pentru prima dat\u0103 \u00een istoria omenirii, \u00een Europa, foametea poate fi gestionat\u0103, iar revolu\u021biile de la 1848 provoac\u0103, contest\u0103, solicit\u0103, lupt\u0103 pentru schimbare \u2013 totul \u00een numele libert\u0103\u021bii na\u021biunii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este epoca na\u021bionalismului roman\u021bat, exaltat \u00een cuget, sim\u021biri \u0219i, mai timid, \u00een farfurii \u2013 de\u0219i \u00eei d\u0103 un titlu integrator Buc\u0103t\u0103ria rom\u00e2n\u0103. Carte coprind\u0326\u0115t\u00f3re de ma\u012d multe re\u021bete de bucate \u0219i bufet<\/em>, cartea lui Christ Ionnin (1865) nu ofer\u0103 altceva dec\u00e2t re\u021bete deja cunoscute, \u00eemprumutate, prea pu\u021bin integrate \u00eentr-o buc\u0103t\u0103rie a na\u021biei emergente. <\/em>B\u0103n\u0103\u021beanul Petre Lupulov este mai pragmatic, el scrie \u00een 1857 \u201erecepte despre varie (deschilinite) bucate cari ori \u0219i cine le pote face\u201d. C\u0103r\u021bile au, \u00eenainte de toate, un caracter func\u021bional, \u00eencerc\u00e2nd s\u0103 rezolve c\u00e2t mai multe, dup\u0103 cum observ\u0103m \u00een acest titlu Buna menajer\u0103 sau Carte de bucate. Cea mai practic\u0103 \u0219i mai bogat\u0103 dintre t\u00f3te c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate scrise p\u00e2n\u0103 ast\u0103zi \u00een limba rom\u00e2n\u0103. 182 ilustra\u021biuni \u00een text, 1111 re\u021bete pentru diferite: supe, ciorbe, aspicuri, m\u00eenc\u0103ri, fripturi, galantine, budinci, pr\u0103jituri, creme, gelatine, \u00eenghe\u021bate, compoturi, dulce\u021buri, conserve etc.<\/em>; autoarea este Ecaterina Dr. S. Com\u0219a, absolvent\u0103 a Institutului \u201eDamen\u2013Stift\u201d din Viena \u0219i nu este singura care dore\u0219te oferirea unei solu\u021bii complete. Multiculturalitatea este v\u0103zut\u0103 ca bog\u0103\u021bie \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103rie, r\u0103spuns la perpetua \u00eentrebare \u201enoi ce m\u00e2nc\u0103m azi?\u201d. J.C. Hin\u021besc\u016d (1875) nu e singurul care scrie Cea ma\u012d nou\u0103 carte de bucate a buc\u0103t\u0103rie\u012d rom\u00e2ne, francese, germ\u00e2ne \u0219i magiare<\/em>, cinci ani mai t\u00e2rziu \u201eun amic al gustului\u201d r\u0103mas din p\u0103cate anonim, public\u00e2nd 500 de re\u021bete din buc\u0103t\u0103riile conlocuitoare. <\/em>Mai t\u00e2rziu, \u00een 1934, Simona Racovi\u021b\u0103 va face via\u021ba mai simpl\u0103 oferind \u201eMeniuri [\u2026]\u201d pentru \u00eentreg anul <\/em>(bunul obicei de a da variante de meniuri pentru fiecare lun\u0103, deci de sezon, se g\u0103se\u0219te \u0219i la Bacalba\u0219a \u0219i la Sanda Marin, care public\u0103 \u00een aceea\u0219i perioad\u0103).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este epoca \u0219tiin\u021bei \u0219i a abord\u0103rii ra\u021bionale, se descoper\u0103 leg\u0103tura \u00eentre nutri\u021bie, demografie, productivitate (i-am zice azi biopolitic\u0103). Ecaterina Steriady (Colonelu), autoare a volumului Buna menajer\u0103,<\/em> ap\u0103rut la Gala\u021bi \u00een 1871, \u0219tie c\u0103 familia este temelia societ\u0103\u021bii \u0219i c\u0103 \u201eun bun menaj recomand\u0103 o bun\u0103 familie\u201d, ea recunosc\u00e2nd c\u0103 \u201en-am cru\u021bat nicio osteneal\u0103 \u00een elaborarea acestei opere \u0219i \u00fanica mea \u021bint\u0103 n-a fost alta dec\u00e2t a demonstra matroanelor noastre c\u0103 numai prin \u00eengrijrea menagiului na\u0219te abunden\u021b\u0103 \u0219i economia \u00een cas\u0103\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este \u0219i o epoc\u0103 \u00een care gospodinelor li se cere s\u0103 fie la curent cu cele mai noi tendin\u021be \u00een domeniu; apare frecvent c\u00e2te o \u201enou\u0103 carte de bucate\u201d atractiv promovat\u0103 c\u0103 fiind \u201elucrat\u0103 dup\u0103 cele mai moderne scrieri culinare\u201d, cu \u201ere\u021bete \u00eencercate din buc\u0103t\u0103ria tuturor popoarelor civilisate\u201d, culese \u201ede ma\u012d multe bune menagere din societatea acestu\u012d ora\u0219\u201d \u0219i care \u201ese recomand\u0103 bunelor menagere pentru modul cel mai \u00eenlesnitor \u0219i practic de a le prepara\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Peste tot circul\u0103 molipsitor un entuziasm catalizator. Nimic nu r\u0103m\u00e2ne neatins, iar c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate reflect\u0103 spiritul epocii \u2013 au capitole dedicate igienei \u0219i educ\u0103rii gospodinei cu privire la vitamine, proteine \u0219i alte cele trebuincioase organismului. Or\u0103\u0219encele se uit\u0103 la s\u0103tence \u0219i se mobilizeaz\u0103 s\u0103 le \u00eenve\u021be cum s\u0103 g\u0103teasc\u0103, deoarece<\/p>\n\n\n\n

chestiunea alimenta\u021biei este de mare importan\u021b\u0103 \u00een vitalitatea unui neam. \u00cen cele mai multe locuri s\u0103tenii no\u0219tri se hr\u0103nesc r\u0103u, nu pentruc\u0103 le-ar lipsi cele trebuincioase, ci fiindc\u0103 nu \u0219tiu s\u0103-\u0219i fac\u0103 alimentele mai hr\u0103nitoare. Reuniunea femeilor rom\u00e2ne din Arad dorind s\u0103 fac\u0103 un \u00eenceput, modest precum \u00eei sunt \u0219i mijloacele de cari dispune, dup\u0103 ce nu poate sus\u021binea o buc\u0103t\u0103rie ambulant\u0103, cum se face la alte neamuri, a hot\u0103r\u00eet s\u0103 compun\u0103 o carte de bucate pentru popor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ne d\u0103m prea bine seama c\u0103 e greu s\u0103 preg\u0103te\u0219ti m\u00e2nc\u0103ri dup\u0103 o carte de bucate dac\u0103 nu ai oarecare \u00eendem\u00e2nare \u00een ale fiertului, c\u0103 multe dintre s\u0103tencele noastre \u2013 durere \u2013 nu cetesc \u0219i nu cunosc me\u0219te\u0219ugul cetitului, c\u0103 chiar \u0219i cu graiu viu e greu s\u0103 spui pe \u00een\u021belesul tuturora, \u00een dialectele \u021binuturilor, lucruri noui \u0219i necunoscute, dar avem toat\u0103 speran\u021ba \u00een intelectualii dela sate, cari cu ajutorul acestei c\u0103r\u021bi de bucate vor putea introduce pe tinerele s\u0103tence \u00een art\u0103 buc\u0103t\u0103riei. (Tulia Bogdan, 1916)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Numeroase volume se pozi\u021bioneaz\u0103 prin titlu ca fiind \u201edin buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u021b\u0103ranului rom\u00e2n\u201d. <\/em>Medicii public\u0103 lucr\u0103ri precum Igiena \u021b\u0115ranului. Locuin\u021ba, iluminatul \u0219i \u00eenc\u0103ld\u0326itul ei. \u00cembr\u0103c\u0103mintea, \u00eenc\u0103l\u021b\u0103mintea. Alimenta\u021biunea \u021b\u0115ranului \u00een deosebitele epoce ale anului \u0219i \u00een deosebitele regiuni ale \u021b\u0115rei (<\/em>1895). Preocuparea pentru s\u0103n\u0103tate \u0219i igien\u0103 este evident\u0103 at\u00e2t \u00een volumul semnat criptic de M.S.  Buc\u0103t\u0103ria modern\u0103 cu o introducere despre hygiena buc\u0103t\u0103riei (<\/em>1881), c\u00e2t \u0219i \u00een cel intitulat Regina buc\u0103t\u0103riei sau Buc\u0103t\u0103ria universal\u0103 pentru s\u0103n\u0103to\u0219i \u0219i bolnavi (1888). Aceasta din urm<\/em>\u0103 va fi<\/em> reeditat\u0103 \u00een 1931, sub titlul 1001 feluri de m\u00e2ncari<\/em>, de c\u0103tre Bacalba\u0219a. Anna C\u0103pitan Constantinescu scrie  Higiena \u0219i administra\u021bia casnic\u0103 coprindend orticultura \u0219i avicultura precum \u0219i buc\u0103t\u0103ria practic\u0103 \u0219i modern\u0103. Lucrat\u0103 conform necesitatei sim\u021bite \u00een menaj<\/em> (<\/em>1899), iar \u00een 1934 Cleopatra Agarici e deja la a doua edi\u021bie a volumului Centenar valid prin alimenta\u021bie ra\u021bional\u0103, cu o prefa\u021b\u0103 semnat\u0103 de<\/em> Dr. Obregia. \u00cen 1942, \u00eentrebarea care se punea era Cum putem tr\u0103i s\u0103n\u0103tos \u0219i ieftin? (autor V. Florescu). <\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dac\u0103 timp de secole societatea a \u00eensemnat clase sociale ermetic izolate, secolul XX merge pe democratizarea cunoa\u0219terii, iar c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate aplic\u0103 tactica no man left behind<\/em>. Boier, burghez sau \u021b\u0103ran, ele au re\u021bete pentru to\u021bi, spune plin de zel \u0219i speran\u021b\u0103 Adolphe Steinberg cu a sa Cea mai nou\u0103 carte de bucate cu peste 600 de re\u021bete alese potrivite pentru toate clasele, \u00eentocmit\u0103 dup\u0103 autori rom\u00e2ni \u0219i str\u0103ini<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Profesionist sau amator? Pentru Emil Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric nu conteaz\u0103, el oricum \u00ee\u0219i nimice\u0219te competi\u021bia c\u00e2nd public\u0103 Manual practic de cofet\u0103rie pentru cofetari \u0219i particulari, c\u0103ci d\u0103 din cas\u0103 tot \u00eentr-o epoc\u0103 \u00een care secretul profesional era stra\u0219nic p\u0103zit. <\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exist\u0103 Buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u00eentr\u2019o or\u0103<\/em> sau, pentru cine are competen\u021be \u0219i chef de pr\u0103jiturit, cartea de re\u021bete pentru pr\u0103jituri<\/em> cu \u201eprescrip\u021bii pentru prepararea celor mai fine \u0219i complicate pr\u0103jituri\u201d a Terezei Ardeleanu. C\u0103 buc\u0103t\u0103ria este o art\u0103 o \u0219tiu bine cele dou\u0103 surori, doctor Aurelia Sachelarie \u0219i doctorand Henrieta Sachelarie, autoarele volumului Art\u0103 \u0219i \u0219tiin\u021ba \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103rie<\/em>, dar \u0219i Maria Colonel Dobrescu cu a sa Prin c\u0103min spre civiliza\u021bie,<\/em> din 1924. Pun um\u0103rul \u0219i Em. Guichard \u0219i C. Waygart prin C\u0103l\u0103uza buc\u0103t\u0103riei franceze,<\/em> dar \u0219i Elisabeta \u0219i Lorine, dou\u0103 gospodine, una rom\u00e2nc\u0103, una american\u0103, care, probabil inspirate de cel mai nou edificiu Art Deco din ora\u0219, Palatul Telefoanelor de azi, public\u0103 o  Carte de bucate. Culegere de re\u021bete rom\u00e2no-americane<\/em>. Deoarece s<\/em>t\u0103p\u00e2nirea artei se \u00eenva\u021b\u0103, Gabrielle T\u0103zl\u0103uanu se ofer\u0103 s\u0103 le ajute cu o Carte de bucate foarte necesar\u0103 unei bune gospodine<\/em>. Pentru c\u0103 este necesar \u0219i un personal instruit, Virgil Molin pune cap la cap Manualul osp\u0103tarilor. Arta de a servi,<\/em> la Editura Uniunea Camerelor de Munc\u0103, Bucure\u0219ti, 1939.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carnivor sau vegetarian? Avem \u0219i pentru voi re\u021bete: Carte de buc\u0103t\u0103rie vegetarian\u0103 <\/em>(a 3-a edi\u021bie \u00een rom\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1912), prima carte, ap\u0103rut\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 azi, \u00een limba rom\u00e2n\u0103.<\/em> Lucrat\u0103 \u0219i compus\u0103 de D-na Ecaterina Dr. S. Com\u0219a, Absolvent\u0103 institutului \u201eDamen\u2013Stift\u201d din Viena, cu concursul fiicelor sale: D-na M\u0103rioara T. Guilmain \u0219i D\u2013na Angela Rusescu \u00een 1928 (sic). Laura N\u0103dejde vine puternic din spate cu Gospod\u0103ria practic\u0103. Nou\u0103 buc\u0103t\u0103rie vegetarian\u0103. Cu 700 re\u021bete \u0219i formule, iar <\/em>Laz\u0103r Popoviciu, protopop de Arad, public\u0103 probabil prima carte de re\u021bete raw-vegan de la noi, Tain\u0103 vie\u021bii lungi, buc\u0103t\u0103ria f\u0103r\u0103 foc,<\/em> \u00een 1930.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bogat sau nu prea, pace sau r\u0103zboi? <\/em>Constantin Bacalba\u0219a scrie 1001 feluri de m\u00e2nc\u0103ri. Carte de buc\u0103t\u0103rie pentru familii \u0219i restaurante. Buc\u0103t\u0103rie de lux, buc\u0103t\u0103rie de regim,<\/em> iar Zotti Hodo\u0219, Mas\u0103 ieftin\u0103, <\/em>Madeleine Brebu, Buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u00een timp de r\u0103zboi. Art\u0103 de a g\u0103ti substan\u021bial, gustos, variat, economic, cu mijloace reduse,<\/em> iar Elisabeta Ciortan \u0219i Xenia Nicolau, Buc\u0103t\u0103ria ra\u021bional\u0103, re\u021bete de m\u00e2nc\u0103ri,<\/em> \u00een 1943.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu are rost s\u0103 insist aici pe ce a \u00eensemnat apari\u021bia c\u0103r\u021bii de bucate semnate de Sanda Marin, volum pe care antropologul Florin Dumitrescu \u00eel nume\u0219te \u201ebestseller de genera\u021bii, a contribuit nu doar la unificarea variantelor regionale, ci \u0219i la transmiterea prin circular\u0103 a unor re\u021bete standard \u00een toate buc\u0103t\u0103riile rom\u00e2nilor\u201d. A fost reeditat de 16 ori p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1946 \u0219i de \u0219apte ori \u00een perioada 1947-1969, de\u0219i a avut competi\u021bie puternic\u0103 din punctul de vedere al ajutorului practic oferit (cel pu\u021bin \u00een Buc\u0103t\u0103ria modern\u0103<\/em> a Mariei General Dobrescu ap\u0103rut\u0103 \u00een acela\u0219i an) sau al scriiturii (Bacalba\u0219a \u0219i stilul sau exersat de jurnalist bon viveur<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sunt puse pe pia\u021b\u0103 \u00een acest prim secol de carte de bucate tip\u0103rit\u0103 zeci \u0219i zeci de titluri; succesul lor se vede \u00een num\u0103rul de reedit\u0103ri; pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 ele circul\u0103 \u0219i fi\u021buici, mici colec\u021bii de re\u021bete \u0219i sfaturi folositoare, fel \u0219i fel de tip\u0103rituri tematice. Schimbarea de regim din 1947 nu a redus num\u0103rul publica\u021biilor culinare, ba dimpotriv\u0103. Statul, prin ministerele sale, tip\u0103re\u0219te mult \u0219i nu neap\u0103rat maculatur\u0103, cum am fi tenta\u021bi s\u0103 credem. E adev\u0103rat, se tip\u0103re\u0219te mult cantitativ, pu\u021bin calitativ \u0219i aici m\u0103 g\u00e2ndesc la acel d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu<\/em> dat de r\u0103sfoirea multor volume \u2013 copy paste<\/em> pe repeat<\/em>, c\u0103ci proprietatea colectiv\u0103 \u00eenflorea bine mersi pe locul l\u0103sat liber de abolirea drepturilor de proprietate intelectual\u0103. Volumele originale surprind mai degrab\u0103 prin ce este pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 corpul standard de re\u021bete. C\u0103r\u021bile au c\u0103p\u0103tat lungi capitole dedicate nutri\u021biei \u0219tiin\u021bifice, au c\u0103zut la cenzur\u0103 denumiri \u0219i ingrediente burgheze, cosmopolite \u0219i decadente care nu cadrau cu omul nou socialist, au c\u00e2\u0219tigat \u00een doctrin\u0103 \u0219i au pierdut \u00een func\u021bionalitate. Ideologizate, c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate se adresau f\u0103r\u0103 discriminare tuturor, standardizau re\u021bete \u0219i proiectau imaginea unui societ\u0103\u021bi prospere ignor\u00e2nd \u00een fapt austeritatea din magazine. Transformarea lor \u00een instrumente de propagand\u0103 le face cu at\u00e2t mai interesante cu c\u00e2t din ele afl\u0103m cum era v\u0103zut\u0103 femeia \u2013 da, o \u201emenajer\u0103 a revolu\u021biei\u201d, dar una c\u0103reia i se cerea s\u0103 fie o gospodin\u0103 bun\u0103 apt\u0103 s\u0103 primeasc\u0103 oaspe\u021bi, idee care avea de-a face cu prezentarea bog\u0103\u021biei \u0219i educa\u021biei \u2013 avantaje ale unui stil de via\u021b\u0103 comparabil cu cel din Occident. Scrie asta \u00een Silvia Jurcovan, Nicolae Olexiuc, Sanda Marin edi\u021bie ajustat\u0103 sau \u00een Irina Dordea? Nu. Nu negru pe alb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O carte de bucate spune mai mult dec\u00e2t literatura func\u021bional\u0103 pe care o con\u021bine. Vorbe\u0219te despre apartenen\u021b\u0103 \u0219i diferen\u021b\u0103, despre Noi \u0219i Cel\u0103lalt, despre multiculturalismul unei zone, valuri de migrare sau ocupa\u021bie str\u0103in\u0103, ba chiar \u0219i despre natur\u0103 \u0219i bog\u0103\u021bia resurselor naturale \u0219i creativitatea uman\u0103 determinat\u0103 de acestea. Tot c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate ne-au \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat mamele ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 s\u0103 fii femeie, rolul de gen implic\u00e2nd \u0219i responsabilizarea \u00een ceea ce prive\u0219te nutri\u021bia \u0219i deci s\u0103n\u0103tatea familiei. Pe de alt\u0103 parte, c\u0103r\u021bile de bucate din prezent ne pun \u00een farfurie lumea \u0219i, \u00een acela\u0219i timp, ne dau mur\u0103 \u00een gur\u0103 totul \u2013 re\u021bete failproof<\/em> doldora de detalii, cu \u00eentreg procesul structurat, cu fotografii pentru fiecare etap\u0103 \u0219i troubleshooting<\/em> care \u00ee\u021bi trimite creierul \u00een vacan\u021b\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ei, vede\u021bi dumneavoastr\u0103, abia acum am ajuns la esen\u021bial. Pe t\u0103cute am f\u0103cut trecerea de la enumerare la analiz\u0103, de la c\u0103r\u021bi la idei, de la re\u021bete la mesaj manifest \u0219i de acolo la cel latent. Este ceea ce face Cosmin Dragomir de ani buni. Vorbe\u0219te \u0219i scrie despre m\u00e2ncare pe marginea re\u021betei, cro\u0219eteaz\u0103 \u00een jurul ei context \u0219i impact, istorii \u0219i anecdote, aten\u021bion\u0103ri, mustr\u0103ri \u0219i invita\u021bii, deschiz\u00e2nd astfel ferestre noi c\u0103tre abord\u0103ri mai ample. Pove\u0219tile despre m\u00e2ncare sunt mai mult dec\u00e2t storytelling; ele pun \u00een context istoric, geografic \u0219i cultural un ingredient, o tehnic\u0103, un preparat sau un obicei de consum; ele ne arat\u0103 c\u0103 m\u00e2ncarea este o oglind\u0103 a societ\u0103\u021bii. De aceea avem nevoie de Cosmin \u0219i de cei ca el, pentru c\u0103 fac s\u0103 ne fie mai u\u0219or \u0219i mai pl\u0103cut s\u0103 ne raport\u0103m la m\u00e2ncare ca la marker identitar, metafor\u0103 a epocii, loc de rezisten\u021b\u0103 \u00een fa\u021ba globaliz\u0103rii, lec\u021bie de istorie, estetic\u0103 \u0219i prilej de escapism dec\u00e2t ca la un combustibil simplu, gustos \u0219i efemer. C\u00e2t timp se scriu doar c\u0103r\u021bi de bucate, avem garan\u021bia c\u0103 vom m\u00e2nca bine \u0219i diversificat, dar abia c\u00e2nd se scrie \u0219i despre c\u0103r\u021bi de bucate \u0219i alte cele pe l\u00e2ng\u0103, meniul este cu adev\u0103rat complet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Volumul\u00a0Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare\u00a0este disponibil pentru precomand\u0103 \u0219i ajunge la dumneavoastr\u0103 \u00een prima jum\u0103tate a lunii decembrie. Pute\u021bi\u00a0precomanda cartea aici. P\u00e2n\u0103 atunci pute\u021bi citi postfa\u021ba (numit\u0103 de noi „cuv\u00e2ntul de dup\u0103”) al acestui volum scris\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu: \u00cen cuv\u00e2ntul-\u00eenainte, Cosmin Dragomir ne spune c\u0103 nu este corect s\u0103 \u00eencepi un text […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1255,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1263","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-stiri"],"yoast_head":"\nAdriana Sohodoleanu, un fel de postfa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Adriana Sohodoleanu, un fel de postfa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Volumul\u00a0Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare\u00a0este disponibil pentru precomand\u0103 \u0219i ajunge la dumneavoastr\u0103 \u00een prima jum\u0103tate a lunii decembrie. 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Pute\u021bi\u00a0precomanda cartea aici. P\u00e2n\u0103 atunci pute\u021bi citi postfa\u021ba (numit\u0103 de noi „cuv\u00e2ntul de dup\u0103”) al acestui volum scris\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu: \u00cen cuv\u00e2ntul-\u00eenainte, Cosmin Dragomir ne spune c\u0103 nu este corect s\u0103 \u00eencepi un text […]","og_url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/","og_site_name":"Cosmin Dragomir","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cosmin.dragomir.12","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cosmin.dragomir.12","article_published_time":"2023-11-05T05:49:06+00:00","article_modified_time":"2023-11-05T05:49:07+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1640,"height":924,"url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Puteti-Precomanda-cartea-lui-Mircea-Groza.png","type":"image\/png"}],"author":"Cosmin Dragomir","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Scris de":"Cosmin Dragomir","Timp estimat pentru citire":"12 minute"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/"},"author":{"name":"Cosmin Dragomir","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/#\/schema\/person\/fa5dfbff9a3c217f077eaada3362ebe0"},"headline":"Adriana Sohodoleanu, un fel de postfa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare","datePublished":"2023-11-05T05:49:06+00:00","dateModified":"2023-11-05T05:49:07+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/"},"wordCount":2979,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/#\/schema\/person\/fa5dfbff9a3c217f077eaada3362ebe0"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Puteti-Precomanda-cartea-lui-Mircea-Groza.png","articleSection":["general","\u0219tiri"],"inLanguage":"ro-RO","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/","url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2023\/11\/05\/adriana-sohodoleanu-un-fel-de-postfata-la-volumul-colectionarul-de-sarmale-si-alte-povestiri-culinare\/","name":"Adriana Sohodoleanu, un fel de postfa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Colec\u021bionarul de sarmale \u0219i alte povestiri culinare - 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