{"id":1291,"date":"2024-01-05T08:30:41","date_gmt":"2024-01-05T06:30:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=1291"},"modified":"2024-01-05T08:31:53","modified_gmt":"2024-01-05T06:31:53","slug":"marius-tudosiei-prefata-la-volumul-ce-e-nou-in-noua-bucatarie-romaneasca-de-adriana-sohodoleanu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/01\/05\/marius-tudosiei-prefata-la-volumul-ce-e-nou-in-noua-bucatarie-romaneasca-de-adriana-sohodoleanu\/","title":{"rendered":"Marius Tudosiei, prefa\u021b\u0103 la volumul Ce e nou \u00een Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Editura GastroArt anun\u021b\u0103 o nou\u0103 apari\u021bie editorial\u0103 disponibil\u0103 \u00een lib\u0103riile C\u0103rture\u0219ti: Ce e nou \u00een Noua Gastronomie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu. V\u0103 invit\u0103m s\u0103 citi\u021bi prefa\u021ba scris\u0103 de Marius Tudosiei. Pute\u021bi comanda cartea aici<\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00cen 2012 st\u00e2rneam z\u00e2mbete condescendente \u00een sala de conferin\u021be de la Muzeul \u021a\u0103ranului Rom\u00e2n c\u00e2nd \u00eemi expuneam cu voce tare convingerea c\u0103 Rom\u00e2nia, ca \u021bar\u0103-destina\u021bie, se poate salva prin Buc\u0103t\u0103ria sa, incluz\u00e2nd aici toate energiile convergente, de la buc\u0103tari la produc\u0103tori de hran\u0103. Era devreme, foarte devreme, dar zorii revitaliz\u0103rii gastronomiei locale chiar mijeau. \u00cen doar c\u00e2\u021biva ani de la \u00eent\u00e2mplarea cu pricina, efervescen\u021ba vie\u021bii gastronomice locale p\u0103rea s\u0103 capete dimensiuni semnificative, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t tot mai mul\u021bi oameni p\u0103reau s\u0103 devin\u0103 aten\u021bi \u0219i, mai mult dec\u00e2t at\u00e2t, activ preocupa\u021bi de m\u00e2ncare \u00een general. Efectul acumul\u0103rii de experien\u021be culinare externe, tradus\u0103 prin \u201emedia ponderat\u0103 de zile de vacan\u021b\u0103 per capita\u201d, a f\u0103cut ca atingerea \u00eentr-o discu\u021bie a unui subiect cum e gastronomia local\u0103 s\u0103 nu mai par\u0103 deplasat\u0103, ci \u201einteresant\u0103\u201d \u0219i chiar mai mult \u2013 \u201ede actualitate\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A\u0219a cum arat\u0103 dinamica ei de acum, \u00eentre 2020 \u0219i 2023, Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 confirm\u0103 c\u0103 \u0219i-a \u00eenceput propriul drum, chiar dac\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 nu a reu\u0219it s\u0103 adune mas\u0103 critic\u0103 \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 conteze \u00een peisajul mare al consumului general (probabil un market share<\/em> de sub 1%). Totu\u0219i aceast\u0103 nou-ap\u0103rut\u0103 direc\u021bie, grefat\u0103 pe corpul solid al buc\u0103t\u0103riei rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti \u0219i totu\u0219i at\u00e2t de autentic local\u0103, \u00eencepe s\u0103 prind\u0103 nu doar curaj, ci \u0219i \u201echeag\u201d, cum bine spun oamenii v\u00e2rstnici nereferindu-se exclusiv la capital, ci \u00een egal\u0103 m\u0103sur\u0103 la experien\u021b\u0103, reflexe \u0219i practici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 nu vine de nic\u0103ieri, iar Adriana Sohodoleanu surprinde perfect \u0219i argumenteaz\u0103 exemplar asta. Ca orice lucru legat de gastronomie \u0219i de m\u00e2ncare, e rezultatul evolu\u021biei \u0219i interac\u021biunilor cu celelalte culturi. Iar dac\u0103 \u00een trecut proximitatea era principala ocazie pentru schimburile de idei, globalizarea ne face nu doar s\u0103 tr\u0103im, ci \u0219i s\u0103 interac\u021bion\u0103m cu gastronomiile \u00eendep\u0103rtate. Nenum\u0103ratele stagii de preg\u0103tire ale buc\u0103tarilor rom\u00e2ni \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103rii din restaurante mari din multe \u021b\u0103ri, extrem de diferite cultural, nu se puteau l\u0103sa f\u0103r\u0103 urm\u0103ri imediate, la fel cum nu ar fi avut cum s\u0103 nu produc\u0103 efecte pe termen lung. Efervescen\u021ba cu care apar idei noi la cap\u0103tul lumii, \u00een Lima, \u00een New York sau \u00een Bangkok, acum accesibile tuturor la un clic distan\u021b\u0103, apari\u021bia seriei Chef\u2019s Table<\/em> pe Netflix, experimentele fabuloase din Europa (Croa\u021bia, Grecia), democratizarea video a patrimoniului culinar al tuturor \u021b\u0103rilor, consolidarea unor regiuni gastronomice cum e \u021aara Bascilor \u0219i maturizarea \u201e\u00een deplasare\u201d a unei noi genera\u021bii de buc\u0103tari ne-au pus pe o direc\u021bie fascinant\u0103, de\u0219i \u00eenc\u0103 departe de a candida la o pozi\u021bie relevant\u0103 la nivel mondial (sau m\u0103car european).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ideile culese din noua buc\u0103t\u0103rie a Nordului, din Mexic sau din America de Sud, bunele practici din ce \u00een ce mai vizibile de pe Vechiul Continent nu au c\u0103zut la noi pe un teren steril, ci chiar \u00eentr-o pl\u0103m\u0103deal\u0103 consistent\u0103, de unde s-au alimentat \u0219i s-au dezvoltat neverosimil de rapid: \u00een doar c\u00e2\u021biva ani, Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 chiar a ajuns s\u0103 se contureze ferm, profit\u00e2nd, desigur, de curentul mondial care scutur\u0103 \u0219i \u00eemprosp\u0103teaz\u0103 mai toate gastronomiile lumii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fondul buc\u0103t\u0103riei autentice conteaz\u0103 \u00eens\u0103 extrem de mult \u0219i cred c\u0103 ar fi util s\u0103 delimit\u0103m perioada comunist\u0103 ca fiind un derapaj nedorit \u0219i necontrolat, o ie\u0219ire \u00een decor care a deformat buc\u0103t\u0103ria rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 acolo \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 nu o mai recunoa\u0219tem. Restaurantele vremii nu f\u0103ceau dec\u00e2t s\u0103 urmeze linia partidului, s\u0103 prescurteze re\u021bete, s\u0103 fac\u0103 economii \u0219i, prin urmare, s\u0103 v\u00e2nd\u0103 surogate \u2013 o m\u00e2ncare care nu avea cum s\u0103 conteze (dec\u00e2t, poate, prin enormele stric\u0103ciuni pricinuite patrimoniului nostru gastronomic). \u00cens\u0103 \u00eenainte de aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103 chinuitoare g\u0103sim ni\u0219te resurse absolut fabuloase, idei grozave, tehnici des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ite, iar Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie de acolo \u00ee\u0219i trage seva \u00een mod vizibil: din istorie, din c\u0103r\u021bile vechi \u0219i, mai nou admis\u0103 \u0219i asumat\u0103 ca direc\u021bie, din caietele de re\u021bete ale bunicilor no\u0219tri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ne \u00eentoarcem la r\u0103d\u0103cini, dar pe un alt drum \u2013 spuneam unui grup restr\u00e2ns de buc\u0103tari pe care i-am invitat \u00een 2016 s\u0103 dezbatem c\u0103ile posibile pe care s\u0103 o lu\u0103m din loc, convins c\u0103 doar \u00een noi \u00een\u0219ine stau at\u00e2t resursele, c\u00e2t \u0219i r\u0103spunsurile. Drumul acesta s-a dovedit plin de creativitate, marcat de un \u201efusion\u201d uneori greu de \u00een\u021beles, zguduit de tot felul de \u00eencerc\u0103ri, marcat de apari\u021bii \u0219i de dispari\u021bii r\u0103sun\u0103toare, de \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103ri de o constan\u021b\u0103 lini\u0219titoare, dar cu siguran\u021b\u0103 a fost un eficient \u00eenceput de drum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201eUrnim sau nu #NouaBuc\u0103t\u0103rieRom\u00e2neasc\u0103\u201d m\u0103 \u00eentrebam atunci, iar c\u00e2\u021biva ani mai t\u00e2rziu urma s\u0103 primesc nenum\u0103rate confirm\u0103ri pe toate canalele. Restaurantele Noului Val au tot ap\u0103rut, buc\u0103tarii au devenit din ce \u00een ce mai vocali, multora le-a disp\u0103rut ru\u0219inea de a g\u0103ti m\u00e2ncare rom\u00e2neasc\u0103, de-a noastr\u0103, publicul, de\u0219i \u00eenc\u0103 pu\u021bin numeros, este din ce \u00een ce mai educat. \u00cens\u0103\u0219i apari\u021bia primei lucr\u0103ri de cercetare aprofundat\u0103 \u00een domeniul Noii Gastronomii \u2013 cea pe care urmeaz\u0103 s\u0103 o parcurge\u021bi \u2013 m\u0103 face s\u0103 simt c\u0103 Rom\u00e2nia a intrat \u00eentr-o nou\u0103 epoc\u0103 de valorificare a Patrimoniului Gastronomic \u0219i c\u0103 ar putea \u201es\u0103 m\u0103n\u00e2nce o p\u00e2ine bun\u0103\u201d din exploatarea mo\u0219tenirii culinare transpus\u0103 \u00een cheie actual\u0103, exprimat\u0103 \u00een at\u00e2t de multe \u0219i \u00eenc\u00e2nt\u0103tor de variate moduri. De altfel, \u00een ultimii c\u00e2\u021biva ani mai mul\u021bi pasiona\u021bi de istoria gastronomic\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 au \u00eenceput s\u0103 scuture praful de pe ceva ce p\u0103rea c\u0103 nu se va mai trezi. Dar dragonul adormit pare s\u0103 renasc\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103-\u0219i \u00eentind\u0103 aripile, aduc\u00e2nd o prolific\u0103 mi\u0219care de revigorare \u00een peisajul gastronomic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ca pasionat, promotor \u0219i f\u0103uritor de m\u00e2ncare, recunosc c\u0103 am sim\u021bit un fior de pl\u0103cere c\u00e2nd am realizat c\u0103 un astfel de studiu urmeaz\u0103 s\u0103 apar\u0103. Cunosc\u00e2nd-o pe autoare, de fapt cunosc\u00e2ndu-i mai degrab\u0103 pasiunea pentru Gastronomie, nu am putut dec\u00e2t s\u0103 fiu sigur c\u0103 paginile pe care le-am parcurs dintr-o suflare vor fi pline de tot ceea ce ne lipsea ca s\u0103 ne \u00een\u021belegem mai bine direc\u021bia. \u0218i, \u00een anume m\u0103sur\u0103, chiar \u0219i inten\u021bia! Lucrarea surprinde epoca genezei unui curent care, peste doar c\u00e2\u021biva ani, va reprezenta un filon important \u00een zona aceasta e Europei, va atrage turism specializat \u0219i, chiar dac\u0103 nu va ajunge mainstream<\/em>, are \u0219anse s\u0103 reprezinte cea mai mare, mai puternic\u0103 \u0219i mai de impact mi\u0219care cultural\u0103 de dup\u0103 Revolu\u021bie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Suntem subiectivi, cu siguran\u021b\u0103, c\u00e2nd vorbim despre buc\u0103t\u0103rie: este domeniul cel mai aproape de sufletul nostru \u0219i putem p\u0103rea cu u\u0219urin\u021b\u0103 mult prea pasiona\u021bi (\u0219i pasionali). Chiar cred c\u0103 suntem. \u00cens\u0103 toate scrierile Adrianei Sohodoleanu despre ce se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 la noi \u0219i pe alte meridiane \u2013 u\u0219or de g\u0103sit \u0219i de urm\u0103rit pe toate canalele pe care le p\u0103store\u0219te de c\u00e2\u021biva ani buni \u2013 ne arat\u0103 c\u0103 avem nu doar dreptul, ci \u0219i datoria moral\u0103 s\u0103 vorbim ne\u00eencetat despre Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103! Ceva se petrece \u0219i acest \u201eceva\u201d este \u00eenc\u00e2nt\u0103tor! A\u0219a arat\u0103 \u0219i \u00een cercetarea de fa\u021b\u0103, a\u0219a arat\u0103 \u00een toate cercet\u0103rile din teren pe care autoarea le-a dus la cap\u0103t \u00een aproape \u00eentreaga lume cu o consecven\u021b\u0103 pe care i-o recunoa\u0219te (\u0219i urm\u0103re\u0219te) toat\u0103 lumea. Experien\u021ba acumulat\u0103 de Adriana \u00een to\u021bi ace\u0219ti ani ne garanteaz\u0103 dou\u0103 lucruri importante \u00een leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu aceast\u0103 lucrare: achizi\u021bia \u0219i rafinarea tuturor instrumentelor care s\u0103 \u00eei permit\u0103 o \u00een\u021belegere profund\u0103 a fenomenului local \u0219i o larg\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103 practic\u0103, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t compara\u021bia \u0219i evaluarea \u201elocal vs global\u201d s\u0103 fie just f\u0103cute.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cu aceast\u0103 lucrare suntem pu\u0219i \u00eentr-o r\u0103scruce. Nou\u0103, tuturor, paginile urm\u0103toare nu ne vor da \u00een mod direct o direc\u021bie de urmat, nici nu-\u0219i propun, ci ceva mult mai important: la fel ca pe timpurile vechi ale po\u0219talioanelor, r\u0103scrucile erau puncte de a\u0219teptare, de rec\u0103p\u0103tare a suflului, de adunare \u0219i de schimbat vorbe sau idei. E de a\u0219teptat ca analiza Adrianei Sohodoleanu s\u0103 aib\u0103 acest efect asupra tuturor \u0219i, odat\u0103 ce \u00een\u021belegem dincotro venim, s\u0103 repornim fiecare la drumul s\u0103u mai boga\u021bi \u0219i, inevitabil, mai motiva\u021bi s\u0103 mergem mai departe!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ce e nou \u00een Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 este lucrarea de doctorat \u00een sociologie a Adrianei Sohodoleanu. Teza analizeaz\u0103 principalele direc\u021bii de modernizare a buc\u0103t\u0103riei autohtone \u0219i prezint\u0103 concluziile unei cercet\u0103ri de aproximativ 5 ani \u00een care autoarea a intervievat mai to\u021bi chefii care au contribuit la schimbarea la fa\u021b\u0103 a peisajului culinar de la noi \u0219i a participat si a analizat mai toate experientele gastronomice locale de interes temei. Cartea beneficiaz\u0103 \u0219i de c\u00e2teva re\u021bete propuse de unii dintre cei mai cunoscu\u021bi buc\u0103tari de la noi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 este forma local\u0103 a unui fenomen interna\u021bional ce graviteaz\u0103 pe orbit\u0103 Noii Buc\u0103t\u0103rii Nordice care a accelerat tendin\u021be culinare na\u021bionaliste sau doar regionale \u00een mai toat\u0103 lumea. \u00cen Rom\u00e2nia termenul de \u201cnou\u0103 buc\u0103t\u0103rie\u201d a \u00eenceput s\u0103 fie folosit mai \u00eent\u00e2i \u00een Bucure\u0219\u021bi cu relativ\u0103 freven\u021b\u0103 din 2018, dar impactul lui este \u00eenc\u0103 redus. Cele dousprezece restaurante identificate au f\u0103cut obiectul unei cercet\u0103ri empirice \u00eentinse pe parcursul a patru ani. Lucrarea arat\u0103 c\u0103 restaurantele apar ca proiecte de autor opuse unor practici culinare standardizate \u00een deceniile comuniste \u0219i persistente \u00eenc\u0103 \u00een prezent. Ini\u021biatorii lor sus\u021bin c\u0103 \u0219i-au asumat responsabilitatea perform\u0103rii unei buc\u0103tarii rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti alternative, care s\u0103 arate bog\u0103\u021bia, tradi\u021bia \u0219i poten\u021bialul m\u00e2nc\u0103rii rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti. Datele colectate conduc la concluzia c\u0103 noile restaurante \u00ee\u0219i creeaz\u0103 c\u00e2mpul prin performarea localului \u0219i respecificarea autenticit\u0103\u021bii. Mecanismele angajate sunt discursul identitar \u0219i re\u021betarul local. Buc\u0103tarii acord\u0103 aten\u021bie exclusiv ingredientelor \u0219i practicilor locale c\u0103 expresie a mo\u0219tenirii culturale tangibile \u0219i intangibile, recuper\u00e2nd \u0219i promov\u00e2nd pe acelea dintre ele care reprezint\u0103, sugereaz\u0103, semnific\u0103 locul, terroir-ul, comunitatea. Ei creeaz\u0103 la nevoie un imaginar pozitiv identitar asociat buc\u0103t\u0103riei rom\u00e2ne\u0219\u021bi prin exploatarea ingredientelor \u0219i re\u021betelor care au asociate amintiri, pove\u0219ti, tradi\u021bii \u0219i referin\u021be istorice cu poten\u021bial de a activa sentimente de m\u00e2ndrie na\u021bional\u0103 \u0219i nostalgie. Restaurantele analizate exploreaz\u0103 rela\u021bia dintre mo\u0219tenire \u0219i m\u00e2ncare, v\u0103z\u00e2nd \u00een aceast\u0103 datorie \u0219i oportunitate \u0219i adres\u00e2nd astfel seturi de parametri conflictuali. (Marius Tudosiei)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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„Consider c\u0103 Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 este at\u00e2t o continuitate istoric\u0103 c\u00e2t \u0219i o ruptur\u0103 de trecut. Mi\u0219carea, de\u0219i relativ brownian\u0103, \u00ee\u0219i construie\u0219te c\u00e2mpul apel\u00e2nd la resurse materiale precum ingrediente locale de sezon, re\u021bete micro-locale \u0219i resurse simbolice precum tradi\u021bii, istorii \u0219i amintiri prin care patromonializez\u0103 conceptul de local. Noua Buc\u0103t\u0103rie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 nareaz\u0103 localul performativ \u0219i teatral, propun\u00e2nd o experien\u021b\u0103 la un pre\u021b accesibil unei clase cu surplus de capital economic \u0219i cultural. Ea are o contribu\u021bie pozitiv\u0103 la dezvoltarea comunit\u0103\u021bii gastronomice locale \u0219i, de\u0219i este influent\u0103, ea nu str\u0103punge (\u00eenc\u0103) grani\u021bele comunit\u0103\u021bii foodie. F\u0103c\u00e2nd parte din eforturile disparate ce \u021bintesc \u00eembun\u0103t\u0103\u021birea serviciilor \u0219i a imaginii \u021b\u0103rii at\u00e2t pe plan intern c\u00e2t \u0219i, sau \u00een special, extern, r\u0103m\u00e2ne de v\u0103zut \u00een ce m\u0103sura aceste restaurante pot crea o schimbare printre clasa de mijloc vizat\u0103. Acest aspect precum \u0219i modurile \u00een care percepe consumatorul noua oferta culinar\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2n ca teme viitoare de cercetare care s\u0103 contribuie la aprofundarea cunoa\u0219terii Noii Buc\u0103t\u0103rii Rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti.” (Adriana Sohodoleanu)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Adriana Sohodoleanu, doctor in sociologie din 2021, este gastronom. Teza sa de doctorat, care a analizat fenomenul Noii Buc\u0103t\u0103rii Rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti, o valideaz\u0103 ca cercet\u0103tor, iar experien\u021ba sa de proprietar de cofetarie artizanal\u0103 ii asigur\u0103 ancorarea practic\u0103 \u00een munca de laborator si \u00een industrie. Adriana a contribuit cu articole la publica\u021bii precum Oxford Food Symposium\u2019s Proceedings, Dilema Veche, Iscoada, Zile si Nopti \u0219i altele. Eseurile ei exploreaz\u0103 conexiunile dintre m\u00e2ncare \u0219i societate, atr\u0103g\u00e2nd aten\u021bia asupra modurilor complexe \u00een care cultura alimentar\u0103 se \u00eemplete\u0219te cu contexte socio-politice mai largi. Adriana este coautor al unei c\u0103r\u021bi de retete de deserturi istorice, al\u0103turi de Cosmin Dragomir, \u0219i are interven\u021bii s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2nale la Radio Rom\u00e2nia Cultural sub umbrela proiectului s\u0103u Cultura la farfurie ce cuprinde \u0219i prelegeri la Funda\u021bia Calea Victoriei, cine culturale \u00een colaborare cu chefs<\/em> \u0219i somelieri, degust\u0103ri, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Editura GastroArt anun\u021b\u0103 o nou\u0103 apari\u021bie editorial\u0103 disponibil\u0103 \u00een lib\u0103riile C\u0103rture\u0219ti: Ce e nou \u00een Noua Gastronomie Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 de Adriana Sohodoleanu. V\u0103 invit\u0103m s\u0103 citi\u021bi prefa\u021ba scris\u0103 de Marius Tudosiei. 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