{"id":1364,"date":"2024-02-14T09:44:35","date_gmt":"2024-02-14T07:44:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=1364"},"modified":"2024-02-14T09:48:10","modified_gmt":"2024-02-14T07:48:10","slug":"o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/","title":{"rendered":"O scurt\u0103 istorie a sparanghelului la rom\u00e2ni (P)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

P\u00e2n\u0103 de cur\u00e2nd, am crezut c\u0103 sparanghelul este o inven\u0163ie recent\u0103 a serviciilor gastronomice secrete. Leguma asta fabuloas\u0103 a intrat \u00een via\u0163a mea abia dup\u0103 ce am trecut de 20 de ani \u0219i am ajuns \u00een Germania. Ulterior, forma \u015fi culoarea au \u201etrecut sticla\u201d \u015fi, direct din show-urile culinare Tv, sparanghelul a ajuns o constant\u0103 prin pie\u021be, marketuri \u0219i mai ales restaurante. \u00cemi place mult, dac\u0103 e g\u0103tit corect: textur\u0103 crocant\u0103, gust robust, ierbos, clorofilic. Ultima dat\u0103 mi-am luat direct din depozitul TeamFresh HoReCa<\/a>, c\u0103 m\u0103 dusesem s\u0103 beau o cafea cu Dina \ud83d\ude00<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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Ideea e c\u0103, pe c\u00e2nd frate-miu (mai mare cu vreo \u015fase ani) m\u0103 l\u0103sase responsabil cu pia\u0163a (chiar m\u0103 pricepeam, dup\u0103 spusele mamei) adic\u0103 prin buimacii ani ’90, nu am v\u0103zut\/ghicit\/g\u00e2ndit la a\u015fa ceva. La noi acas\u0103 nu s-a v\u0103zut minunea nici fresh, nici la conserv\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Istoria lui pe scurt e simpl\u0103: e men\u0163ionat pe la Egipteni \u00een urm\u0103 cu vreo 5000 de ani, apare \u015fi prin Siria, Spania, la greci \u015fi romani, \u015fi pe la popula\u0163iile nordice europene, apoi cucere\u015fte Fran\u0163a lui Louis al XIV-lea, cel care construie\u015fte \u015fi o ser\u0103 pentru a se bucura de leguma cu pricina tot anul. Una din cele mai vechi re\u0163ete cu sparanghel apare la Apicius: „Se usuc\u0103 l\u0103starii de sparanghel, apoi se scufund\u0103 din nou \u00een ap\u0103 cald\u0103: vor deveni mai tari. (Nu este vorba de sparanghelul alb pe care \u00eel utiliz\u0103m ast\u0103zi, ci de cel verde, adesea s\u0103lbatic, care avea tendin\u0163a s\u0103 se \u00eenmoaie dup\u0103 o fierbere \u00eendelungat\u0103. De aceea este nevoie de o tripl\u0103 opera\u0163ie: fierbere-r\u0103cire-fierbere, pentru a \u00eent\u0103ri vl\u0103starii \u2013 explica\u0163ia din finalul c\u0103r\u0163ii)\u201d.
La noi, el ajunge prin filier\u0103 germanic\u0103, dar nu l-am g\u0103sit men\u0163ionat \u00een hrisoavele b\u0103canilor ca marf\u0103 tranzac\u0163ionabil\u0103 \u015fi v\u0103muibil\u0103 (a\u015fa cum apare anghinarea).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sparanghelul lipse\u015fte din \u201eDin buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u0163\u0103ranului rom\u00e2n\u201d de Mihai Lupescu, nu apare nici \u00een \u201eM\u00e2nc\u0103ruri de alt\u0103 dat\u0103, vinuri \u015fi vechi b\u0103uturi rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d, volum de Dan-Silviu Boerescu, C\u0103t\u0103lin P\u0103duraru \u015fi Florica Bud \u015fi nici \u00een prima carte de bucate editat\u0103 \u00een Moldova: \u201eCarte de bucate Boiere\u015fti\u201d de Mihail Kog\u0103lniceanu \u015fi Kostache Negruzzi. P\u00e2n\u0103 aici totul e clar. \u00cens\u0103… sparanghelul \u00ee\u015fi \u00eenmoaie l\u0103satarii \u00een sos (alb, \u00een majoritatea cov\u00e2r\u015fitoare a cazurilor) sau se b\u0103l\u0103ce\u015fte \u00een supe de mult mai mult timp dec\u00e2t las\u0103 s\u0103 se intuiasc\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sparanghelul apare \u00een dou\u0103 re\u0163ete dintr-un manuscris din epoca br\u00e2ncoveneasc\u0103 (aproximativ 1700). Este men\u0163ionat de c\u00eeteva ori \u00een \u201eCea mai nou\u0103 carte de bucate cu peste 600 de re\u0163ete alese potrivite pentru toate clasele, \u00eentocmit\u0103 dup\u0103 autori rom\u00e2ni \u015fi str\u0103ini\u201d, de A. \u015et. din 1921, \u015fi \u00een \u201eBuna menajer\u0103 sau Carte de bucate\u201d de Ecaterina Dr. S. Com\u015fa, edi\u0163ia a IX-a. Apare \u015fi la Bacalba\u015fa, la Sanda Marin sau la Silvia Jurcovan. Mai mult, un ghid de cultivare a sparanghelului vede lumina tiparului (edi\u0163ia a III-a) \u00een 1943 \u00een Biblioteca agricol\u0103 a ziarului Universul. Ba\u015fca, re\u0163ete cu sparanghel sunt inserate \u00een \u201eAlbum literar gastronomic\u201d (1982 \u015fi 1983) \u00eentre acelea\u015fi coper\u0163i cu re\u0163eta de ochiuri cu parizer dar \u015fi \u00een \u201ePreparate reci de art\u0103 culinar\u0103\u201d (1990).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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S\u0103 vedem ce spune \u015fi Radu Anton Roman: \u201eLa mare pre\u0163 \u00een alte oale de aiurea, verziturile de mai sus se g\u0103tesc mai rar \u00een Rom\u00e2nia, fiind venituri (\u00abalogene\u00bb) cu succes local. Napii, rubarba sunt cultivate \u015fi g\u0103tite ici \u015fi colo \u00een Ardeal, dar f\u0103r\u0103 tendin\u0163e de r\u0103sp\u00e2ndire (n.m. rubarba s-a rutinat \u015fi prin alte zone). Anghinarea, sparanghelul, chiar \u015fi bamele \u015fi andivele, verzele broccoli \u015fi de Bruxelles au r\u0103mas bucate exotice, aluvionare, la discre\u0163ia apetitului pre\u0163ios, strict citadin, al lumii bune\u201d \u015fi nu am cum (nici nu caut) s\u0103-l contrazic. \u00cens\u0103 (cel pu\u0163in \u00een perioada interbelic\u0103) sparanghelul \u00ee\u015fi luase av\u00e2nt \u015fi \u00ee\u015fi l\u0103rgise considerabil plaja de clien\u0163i. Altfel nu se poat explica de ce \u00een 1935, la Br\u0103ila, la cursul \u015fcolar de gospod\u0103rire au fost predate dou\u0103 re\u0163ete cu el: al\u0103turi de carne \u015fi cu sos alb. Trendul a continuat \u015fi a luat amploare iar asta o dovede\u015fte ghidul de cultivare al sparanghelului ajuns \u00een 1943 la cea de a III-a edi\u0163ie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photo credit:<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a9\u00a0Kati Finell<\/a>\u00a0|\u00a0Dreamstime.com<\/a>,\u00a0\u00a9\u00a0Hlphoto<\/a>\u00a0|\u00a0Dreamstime.com<\/a>\u00a0\u00a9\u00a0Yap Kee Chan<\/a>\u00a0|\u00a0Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bibliografie:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  • \u201eBucate, vinuri \u015fi obiceiuri rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d, Radu Anton Roman edi\u0163ie nou\u0103, \u00eendelung rev\u0103zut\u0103 \u015fi mult ad\u0103ugat\u0103, editura Paidea 2001<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eDin buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u0163\u0103ranului rom\u00e2n\u201d, Mihai Lupescu, editura Paidea 2001, dup\u0103 un manuscris din 1916<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eM\u00e2nc\u0103ruri de alt\u0103 dat\u0103, vinuri \u015fi vechi b\u0103uturi rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d, Dan-Silviu Boerescu, C\u0103t\u0103lin P\u0103duraru \u015fi Florica Bud editura Lifestyle [Classic] 2010 ( Grupul editoria Trei)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eDin istoria comer\u0163ului la rom\u00e2ni, mai ales b\u0103c\u0103nia \u2013 publica\u0163iune de documente inedite 1593 -1855\u201d, Dumitru Z. Furnica, Atelierele grafice Socec & Co., Societate Anonim\u0103 1908.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eCarte de bucate boiere\u015fti \u2013 200 de re\u0163ete cercare de bucate, pr\u0103jituri \u015fi alte trebi gospod\u0103re\u015fti\u201d, Mihail Kog\u0103lniceanu \u015fi Kostache Negruzzi, edi\u0163ia VI, editura Vremea 2007, dup\u0103 \u201e200 de re\u0163ete cercare de bucate, pr\u0103jituri \u015fi alte trebi gospod\u0103re\u015fti\u201d, Ia\u015fi, 1841, Catora Foii S\u0103te\u015fti<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eO lume \u00eentr-o carte de bucate, manuscris din epoca br\u00e2ncoveneasc\u0103\u201d, transcriere, prefa\u0163\u0103 \u015fi postfa\u0163\u0103 de Ioana Constantinescu, studiu introductiv Matei Cazacu, editura Funda\u0163iei Culturale Rom\u00e2ne, 1997.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eCea mai nou\u0103 carte de bucate cu peste 600 de re\u0163ete alese potrivite pentru toate clasele, \u00eentocmit\u0103 dup\u0103 autori rom\u00e2ni \u015fi str\u0103ini\u201d, A. \u015et. Editura Libr\u0103riei H. Steinberg & Fiu, 1921<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eBuna menajer\u0103 sau Carte de bucate, cea mai practic\u0103 \u015fi mai bogat\u0103 din toate c\u0103r\u0163ile de bucate scrise p\u00e2n\u0103 azi \u00een limba rom\u00e2n\u0103\u201d, Ecaterina Dr. S. Com\u015fa absolvent\u0103 a Institutului \u201eDamen-Stift\u201d din Viena, edi\u0163ia a IX-a, (an? Edi\u0163ia a doua a fost \u00een 1925) editura Libr\u0103riei Socec & Co. S.A.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201ePreparate reci de art\u0103 culinar\u0103\u201d, Ion Radu, Maria Onu, Editura Tehnic\u0103, 1990.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eAlmanah literar gastronomic\u201d, editat de Revista Via\u0163a Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103, 1982, 1983.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eCarte de bucate\u201d, Sanda Marin, editura Tehnic\u0103 1954 (sparanghel fiert, chiftele)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eCarte de bucate\u201d, Sanda Marin, editura Orizonturi 2011 (fiert, la cuptor, chiftele, budinc\u0103, sup\u0103)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eCarte de bucate\u201d, Silvia Jurcovan, Humanitas 2012<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eDictatura gastronomic\u0103, 1501 de feluri de m\u00e2ncare din 1935\u201d, Constantin Bacalba\u015fa, editura Life& Style Classic (editura Trei), 2010<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • \u201eDe re Coqvinaria \u2013 art\u0103 culinar\u0103 sau buc\u0103t\u0103ria \u00een Roma Antic\u0103\u201d, Apicius, editura Albatros 2003<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    P\u00e2n\u0103 de cur\u00e2nd, am crezut c\u0103 sparanghelul este o inven\u0163ie recent\u0103 a serviciilor gastronomice secrete. Leguma asta fabuloas\u0103 a intrat \u00een via\u0163a mea abia dup\u0103 ce am trecut de 20 de ani \u0219i am ajuns \u00een Germania. Ulterior, forma \u015fi culoarea au \u201etrecut sticla\u201d \u015fi, direct din show-urile culinare Tv, sparanghelul a ajuns o constant\u0103 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1363,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1364","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-stiri"],"yoast_head":"\nO scurt\u0103 istorie a sparanghelului la rom\u00e2ni (P) - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"O scurt\u0103 istorie a sparanghelului la rom\u00e2ni (P) - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"P\u00e2n\u0103 de cur\u00e2nd, am crezut c\u0103 sparanghelul este o inven\u0163ie recent\u0103 a serviciilor gastronomice secrete. Leguma asta fabuloas\u0103 a intrat \u00een via\u0163a mea abia dup\u0103 ce am trecut de 20 de ani \u0219i am ajuns \u00een Germania. 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Leguma asta fabuloas\u0103 a intrat \u00een via\u0163a mea abia dup\u0103 ce am trecut de 20 de ani \u0219i am ajuns \u00een Germania. Ulterior, forma \u015fi culoarea au \u201etrecut sticla\u201d \u015fi, direct din show-urile culinare Tv, sparanghelul a ajuns o constant\u0103 […]","og_url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/","og_site_name":"Cosmin Dragomir","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cosmin.dragomir.12","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cosmin.dragomir.12","article_published_time":"2024-02-14T07:44:35+00:00","article_modified_time":"2024-02-14T07:48:10+00:00","og_image":[{"width":800,"height":533,"url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/dreamstime_s_30492458-jpg.webp","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Cosmin Dragomir","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Scris de":"Cosmin Dragomir","Timp estimat pentru citire":"6 minute"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/"},"author":{"name":"Cosmin Dragomir","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/#\/schema\/person\/fa5dfbff9a3c217f077eaada3362ebe0"},"headline":"O scurt\u0103 istorie a sparanghelului la rom\u00e2ni (P)","datePublished":"2024-02-14T07:44:35+00:00","dateModified":"2024-02-14T07:48:10+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/"},"wordCount":1126,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/#\/schema\/person\/fa5dfbff9a3c217f077eaada3362ebe0"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/dreamstime_s_30492458-jpg.webp","articleSection":["general","\u0219tiri"],"inLanguage":"ro-RO","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/","url":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/2024\/02\/14\/o-scurta-istorie-a-sparanghelului-la-romani-p\/","name":"O scurt\u0103 istorie a sparanghelului la rom\u00e2ni (P) - 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