{"id":1406,"date":"2024-04-02T06:18:33","date_gmt":"2024-04-02T03:18:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=1406"},"modified":"2024-04-02T06:18:34","modified_gmt":"2024-04-02T03:18:34","slug":"naramza-portocala-amara-care-nu-lipsea-de-pe-masa-lui-brancoveanu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/04\/02\/naramza-portocala-amara-care-nu-lipsea-de-pe-masa-lui-brancoveanu\/","title":{"rendered":"Naramza, portocala amar\u0103 care nu lipsea de pe masa lui Br\u00e2ncoveanu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Citrus \u00d7 aurantium, cunoscut mai ales sub numele de portocal amar sau portocal\u0103 Seville, este un membru intrigant al familiei citricelor, cu o istorie bogat\u0103 \u0219i o prezen\u021b\u0103 marcant\u0103 \u00een gastronomie. Este un hibrid, posibil \u00eentre Citrus maxima (pomelo) \u0219i Citrus reticulata (mandarina), care s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit din Asia de Sud-Est p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Mediterana. Istoria sa \u00eencepe cu mii de ani \u00een urm\u0103, c\u00e2nd a fost cultivat \u00een China, India \u0219i pe \u00eentreaga coast\u0103 mediteranean\u0103. \u00cen Evul Mediu, a fost adus \u00een Africa de Nord \u0219i \u00een Europa de c\u0103tre comercian\u021bi \u0219i cuceritori arabi, unde a c\u00e2\u0219tigat rapid popularitate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00cen secolele XVII \u0219i XVIII, portocala amar\u0103 a devenit extrem de valoroas\u0103 \u00een Europa, nu doar ca plant\u0103 ornamental\u0103 \u00een gr\u0103dinile regale \u0219i nobiliare, dar \u0219i pentru utilizarea sa \u00een medicin\u0103 \u0219i parfumerie. \u00cen gastronomie, sucul s\u0103u a fost folosit pentru a ad\u0103uga un gust unic preparatelor culinare, iar coaja sa a fost pre\u021buit\u0103 pentru aromele pe care le aducea \u00een dulciuri \u0219i b\u0103uturi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La noi \u0219tim c\u0103 era folosit \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103rie \u00een din timpul lui Br\u00e2ncoveanu. Din acea epoc\u0103 s-a p\u0103strat o culegere de re\u021bete, aflat\u0103 \u00een arhivele Academiei Rom\u00e2ne, atribuit\u0103 Postelnicului Cantacuzino, cel care era direct r\u0103spunz\u0103tor cu cele d\u2019ale gurii de la mesele domne\u0219ti. Manuscrisul, care con\u021bine 293 de re\u021bete, a fost publicat o singur\u0103 dat\u0103, \u00een 1996, la editura actualului ICR, \u00eentr-un tiraj infim, \u00eentr-o edi\u021bie coordonat\u0103 de Ioana Constantinescu cu un studiu introductiv al istoricului Matei Cazacu. Culegerea de re\u021bete poart\u0103 titlul: Carte \u00eentru care s\u0103 scriu m\u00e2nc\u0103rile de pe\u0219te i raci, stridii, melci, legumi, erburi \u0219i alte m\u00e2nc\u0103ri de sec \u0219i de dulce, dupre or\u00e2nduiala lor<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este cel mai vechi astfel de document cunoscut din \u021aara Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103. \u00cen Ardeal au fost p\u0103strate un manuscris (datat 1550 -1600), dar \u0219i o carte tip\u0103rit\u0103 (prima edi\u021bie \u00een 1693, ulterioara \u00een 1695) ce premerg documentului comentat \u00een acest articol. Despre cele dou\u0103 texte din Transilvania o s\u0103 scriu un material separat. \u00cen Moldova, cea mai veche carte de bucate apare \u00een 1841 \u0219i este o colec\u021bie de re\u021bete culese, traduse \u0219i adaptate de c\u0103tre Mihail Kog\u0103lniceanu \u0219i Costache Negruzzi.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mai jos v\u0103 prezint c\u00e2teva re\u021bete din aceast\u0103 carte \u00een care se folose\u0219te naramz\u0103:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ceNV\u0102\u0162\u0102TUR\u0102 DE A FACE MULTE FELIURI DE M\u00c2NC\u0102RI DE OAO<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ia migdale \u015fi le piseaz\u0103 bine \u015fi le amestec\u0103 cu pu\u0163intic\u0103 ap\u0103 de trandafir au de flori de naramz\u0103, \u015fi le treci pen sit\u0103, care s\u0103 socote\u015fti s\u0103 fie trec\u0103tura can gro\u015fcioar\u0103. Deci le am\u00e9stec\u0103 cu oaole \u015fi le bate bine, puind \u015fi ceva sare, \u015fi apoi le pr\u0103ja\u015fte de f\u0103 pl\u0103cint\u0103. De vei vrea, c\u00e2nd le vei bate, pune \u015fi pu\u0163intel zahar, \u015fi pe deasupra s\u0103 le pui zahar \u015fi scor\u0163i\u015foar\u0103 sup\u0163ire pisat\u0103 au zahar \u015fi must de naramz\u0103 acr\u0103, dupre gustul fie\u015ftec\u0103ruia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ia 8 au 10 oao \u015fi le bate bine cu sare, apoi le am\u00e9stec\u0103 cu un pahar de lapte de vac\u0103 au de capr\u0103, mai bine fiind, \u015fi cu pu\u0163intic\u0103 izm\u0103 \u015fi maghiran bine pisat \u015fi cu o m\u00e2n\u0103 de cucunari st\u0103tu\u0163i amoiu \u015fi pisa\u0163i bine, \u015fi apoi le f\u0103 pl\u0103cint\u0103, \u00eentorc\u00e2nd-o, ca s\u0103 fie bine pr\u0103jit\u0103 de am\u00e2ndoao p\u0103r\u0163ile, \u015fi pe deasupra s\u0103 pui zahar, scor\u0163i\u015foar\u0103 \u015fi must de naramz\u0103 acr\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00ceNV\u0102\u0162\u0102TUR\u0102 DE A FACE MULTE FELIURI DE S\u0102L\u0102TURI, DUP\u0102 VREMI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u0103lat\u0103 iar\u0103 de capere, muiate \u00een o\u0163et, pe deasupra cu f\u0103lii de l\u0103m\u00e2e, gr\u0103un\u0163e de rodie, ap\u0103 de flori de naramz\u0103 au de trandafir \u015fi zahar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ceNV\u0102\u0162\u0102TURI A FACE MULTE FELIURI DE DULCE\u0162URI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Coji de naramz\u0103 i de l\u0103m\u00e2e<\/strong>
S\u0103 iai coji de l\u0103m\u00e2e groase \u0219i s\u0103 cure\u021bi de miezul sau peli\u021bile cele didesupt. Deci s\u0103 le pui \u00een ap\u0103 amoi, s\u0103 stea 4 zile \u0219i 4 nop\u021bi, premedind apa de 2 ori zioa, apoi le scoate dintr-acea ap\u0103 \u0219i le pune \u00een ap\u0103 c\u00e2nd fierbi, fierb\u00e2ndu-le p\u00e2n\u0103 ce s\u0103 vor muia. Deci scoate-le \u0219i le pune \u00een ap\u0103 rece s\u0103 stea alte dou\u0103 zile amoiu, mut\u00e2nd adese zioa apa, apoi s\u0103 aibi gata la fie\u0219care litr\u0103 de coji o litr\u0103 \u0219i jum\u0103tate de zah\u0103r topit \u0219i cur\u0103\u021bit, \u0219i s\u0103 pui cojile \u00een zaharul acela \u0219i, \u00eencet, \u00eencet, le fiarbe ca un ceas, spum\u00e2ndu-le cu lingura . Deci le ia de la foc \u0219i le las\u0103 s\u0103 stea \u00een zahar 8 zile, \u00eenc\u0103lzindu-le pe spuz\u0103 au pe c\u0103rbuni \u00een toate zilelele c\u00e2te o dat\u0103, ca s\u0103 p\u0103trunz\u0103 mai bine zaharul coj\u0103le; \u0219i umpl\u00e2ndu-se acele zile, s\u0103 le pui \u00eentr-un vas \u0219i le p\u0103streaz\u0103.
De naramz\u0103<\/strong>
Asemene s\u0103 fac coj\u0103le de n\u0103ramz\u0103, numai trebuiesc s\u0103 stea mai mult \u00een ap\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 \u00een doao ape, \u00eent\u00e2i mai fierbi pu\u021bin, \u0219i s\u0103 laptezi apa aceia, apoi s\u0103 pui alt\u0103 ap\u0103 \u0219i le fierbi mai mult, p\u00e2n\u0103 ce s\u0103 vor \u00eenmuia c\u00e2t tribuie, \u0219i apoi urmeaz\u0103 de le f\u0103 ca cum s-au zis de coj\u0103le de l\u0103m\u00e2ie.
Alt fel, de l\u00e2m\u00e2i i naramze<\/strong>
Ia l\u0103m\u00e2ile \u0219i naramzele \u0219i le cur\u0103 sup\u021birel de coaj\u0103, au le r\u0103zuia\u0219te pe o r\u0103zuitoare m\u0103runt, c\u00e2t s\u0103-i ias\u0103 coaja cea deasupra galben\u0103, iar\u0103 s\u0103 nu strici alb\u0103 carnea. Deci, dupre ce le vei curu\u021bs <!>, s\u0103 le tai \u00een 5-6 p\u0103r\u021bi coaja \u0219i s\u0103 le sco\u021bi miezul, apoi le pune de la fiarbe cu ap\u0103, puind \u00eentr-acea ap\u0103\u0219i un miez-doao de l\u0103m\u00e2e de acele curate, \u00eentregi, strorc\u00e2ndu-le \u00eent\u00e2i c\u00e2tva\u0219 de must \u00een apa cu cojile \u0219i, a\u0219a, le fiarbe c\u00e2t tribue. Dupre aceia, le scoate din apa unde au fiert \u0219i le bag\u0103 \u00een ap\u0103 rece, s\u0103 stea p\u00e2n\u0103 ce vei fiarbe zaharul sirop lung, apoi le cur\u0103\u021b\u0103 de peli\u021be \u0219i de alt ce va avea \u0219i sp\u0103l\u00e2ndu-le bine, le pune \u00een tingirea cu \u0219iropul s\u0103 fiarb\u0103 ca un \u0219fert, apoi le pune \u00eentr-un borcan s\u0103 stea 2 zile \u0219i 2 nop\u021bi, au \u0219i mai mult; apoi cur\u0103 zaharul \u0219i le fiarbe iar\u0103 ca un \u0219fert au \u0219i mai bine, apoi \u00eel pune iar peste coji, rece, s\u0103 mai stea o zi, apoi le fiarbe cu zaharul c\u00e2tva\u0219 dinpreun\u0103 \u0219i, r\u0103cindu-se, le pune \u00een borcan \u0219i vor fi f\u0103cute.
Alt fel<\/strong>
Dupre ce le vei cura naramzele cum sus se-au zis, s\u0103 le fierbi cu ap\u0103 c\u00e2tva\u0219, la fiertura lor, p\u00e2n\u0103 ce se va dezlupi miezul de coji, apoi le scoate \u0219i le pune \u00een ap\u0103 rece. Deci le cresteaz\u0103 cu cu\u021bitul didsupt \u0219i le scobe\u0219te cu linguri\u021ba de fier de le scoate tot miezul \u0219i, dupre ce le vei scoate, le pune de le mai fiarbe iar\u0103 \u00een apa ce au mai fiert, p\u00e2n\u0103 ce vor veni la fiertura lor, \u0219i apoi le f\u0103 cum se-au zis sus \u0219i de celelalte t\u0103iate felii.
Alt fel<\/strong>
S\u0103 iai cojile de l\u0103m\u00e2ie i de n\u0103ramze i chitre \u0219i s\u0103 le pui \u00een ap\u0103 s\u0103 stea 8-10 zile, premedindu-le \u00een toate zilele c\u00e2te o dat\u0103 apa, p\u00e2n\u0103 ce cojile s\u0103 vor lucii \u0219i curate \u0219i vor piarde am\u0103r\u0103ciunea, apoi le scur\u0103 din ap\u0103 \u0219i le zvinteaz\u0103. Deci ia miare fiart\u0103 \u0219i spumat\u0103, c\u0103ldicea, \u0219i o pune peste coji s\u0103 le acopere \u0219i \u00een toate zilele c\u00e2te o dat\u0103 le \u00eenc\u0103lze\u0219te bine, p\u00e2n\u0103 ce le va p\u0103trunde miarea bine, apoi fiarbe miarea bine \u0219i o pune peste coji \u0219i vor fi f\u0103cute. Iar\u0103 vr\u00e2nd s\u0103 le faci cu zah\u0103r, s\u0103 fierbi zaharul \u0219i s\u0103-l pui peste coji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ceNV\u0102\u0162\u0102TURI DE A FACE MULTE FELIURI DE VUTCI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vutc\u0103 de coji de naramz\u0103. Ia vin oca 10, coji de naramz\u0103 dramuri 30, f\u0103 vutc\u0103 cum se-au zis la c\u00e9lelalte, apoi pune coji dramuri 5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Citrus \u00d7 aurantium, cunoscut mai ales sub numele de portocal amar sau portocal\u0103 Seville, este un membru intrigant al familiei citricelor, cu o istorie bogat\u0103 \u0219i o prezen\u021b\u0103 marcant\u0103 \u00een gastronomie. Este un hibrid, posibil \u00eentre Citrus maxima (pomelo) \u0219i Citrus reticulata (mandarina), care s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit din Asia de Sud-Est p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Mediterana. Istoria sa […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1408,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1406","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-stiri"],"yoast_head":"\nNaramza, portocala amar\u0103 care nu lipsea de pe masa lui Br\u00e2ncoveanu - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2024\/04\/02\/naramza-portocala-amara-care-nu-lipsea-de-pe-masa-lui-brancoveanu\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Naramza, portocala amar\u0103 care nu lipsea de pe masa lui Br\u00e2ncoveanu - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Citrus \u00d7 aurantium, cunoscut mai ales sub numele de portocal amar sau portocal\u0103 Seville, este un membru intrigant al familiei citricelor, cu o istorie bogat\u0103 \u0219i o prezen\u021b\u0103 marcant\u0103 \u00een gastronomie. Este un hibrid, posibil \u00eentre Citrus maxima (pomelo) \u0219i Citrus reticulata (mandarina), care s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit din Asia de Sud-Est p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een Mediterana. 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