{"id":509,"date":"2023-02-07T07:22:35","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T05:22:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=509"},"modified":"2023-02-14T05:02:49","modified_gmt":"2023-02-14T03:02:49","slug":"sarmale-iberice-o-reteta-inedita-din-asturia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/07\/sarmale-iberice-o-reteta-inedita-din-asturia\/","title":{"rendered":"Sarmale iberice: o re\u021bet\u0103 inedit\u0103 din Asturia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Una dintre cele mai interesante re\u021bete de sarmale o g\u0103sim \u00een nord-vestul Spaniei (Asturia, Cantabria, Lugo), radical diferit\u0103 de tot ce mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit p\u00e2n\u0103 acum. Mai mult, aceasta beneficiaz\u0103 \u0219i de o istorie fabuloas\u0103, recent\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u0103 treci prin Pola de Allande din Asturia \u0219i s\u0103 nu te opre\u0219ti la restaurantul La Nueva Allandesa ar fi un p\u0103cat turistico-gastronomic de neiertat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen 1957, Encarnaci\u00f3n Fern\u00e1ndez Parrondo, al\u0103turi de so\u021bul Rafael Fern\u00e1ndez Gonz\u00e1lez, Pura, cumnata \u0219i so\u021bul ei, Antonio Rodr\u00edguez \u00c1lvarez, pun bazele unui mic han. Condi\u021biile erau grele, o singur\u0103 baie la toate cele trei camere, soba pe lemne, iar cearceafurile erau sp\u0103late \u00een r\u00e2u. Cl\u0103direa \u0219i spa\u021biul erau mo\u0219tenire de la p\u0103rin\u021bii lor, iar tat\u0103l celor doi fra\u021bi le impusese o singur\u0103 regul\u0103: s\u0103 g\u0103teasc\u0103 \u00een fiecare zi un fel de m\u00e2ncare care s\u0103 devin\u0103 emblematic pentru stabiliment. Astfel au \u00eenceput s\u0103 g\u0103teasc\u0103 o tocan\u0103 pe baz\u0103 de c\u00e2rna\u021bi \u0219i verdea\u021b\u0103 din gr\u0103din\u0103, dar care nu a avut prea mare succes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ulterior Encarnaci\u00f3n a ales alte dou\u0103 feluri de m\u00e2ncare: o budinc\u0103 din legume \u0219i varza umplut\u0103. Gustase cel din urm\u0103 preparat \u00een timp ce era la Madrid \u0219i apoi identificase re\u021beta \u00eentr-o carte veche de bucate. Doar c\u0103 re\u021beta original\u0103 a fost surs\u0103 de inspira\u021bie, iar buc\u0103t\u0103reasa a modificat-o \u0219i adaptat-o at\u00e2t pentru gustul local, c\u00e2t \u0219i pentru a folosi carnea de vit\u0103 din zon\u0103. Doar c\u0103 nici cele dou\u0103 noi preparate nu au spart gura t\u00e2rgului, ba chiar nu au dat nici m\u0103car un dinte jos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen joc intr\u0103 nepotul Encarnei, Anton\u00edn, fiul lui Antonio \u0219i Pura, care \u00eei ruga pe clien\u021bi s\u0103 \u00eencerce preparatele cu promisiunea c\u0103 dac\u0103 nu le convine le va schimba. Urma\u0219ii spun c\u0103 e foarte posibil ca \u00een to\u021bi ace\u0219ti ani nimeni s\u0103 nu fi dorit s\u0103 li se schimbe felurile de m\u00e2ncare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201eTo\u021bi cei care intr\u0103 sunt siguri c\u0103 o vor putea gusta, a\u0219a au trecut 365 de zile pe an din 1957\u201d, explic\u0103 Gelina Fern\u00e1ndez, a treia genera\u021bie responsabil\u0103 de afacere. Au fost doar trei zile \u00een care nu a fost a\u0219a: \u201eC\u00e2nd bunicii mei Rafael \u0219i Encarna au murit \u0219i c\u00e2nd m-am c\u0103s\u0103torit\u201d[1]. Urma\u0219ii sus\u021bin, de asemenea, c\u0103 re\u021betele au r\u0103mas neschimbate de at\u00e2tea decenii, \u0219i c\u0103 la unele evenimente, unde li se cere mai mult\u0103 aten\u021bie la aspect, doar umbl\u0103 la plating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen zon\u0103 se mai face varz\u0103 umplut\u0103, dar aria de r\u0103sp\u00e2ndire a preparatului nu e foarte mare. Re\u021betele sunt clasice, nimic special. Inedit\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2ne re\u021beta Encarnei:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varza se blan\u0219eaz\u0103. Vi\u021belul se toac\u0103 \u0219i se g\u0103te\u0219te \u00eenn\u0103bu\u0219it. Apoi se \u00eempacheaz\u0103 sarmalele, se dau prin f\u0103in\u0103, se sigileaz\u0103 cu ou b\u0103tut \u0219i se pr\u0103jesc ca sni\u021belele. \u00cen alt\u0103 crati\u021b\u0103 se face un sos din dou\u0103 linguri de ulei, una de f\u0103in\u0103 \u0219i 250 de mililitri de sup\u0103 concentrat\u0103 de vit\u0103, sare \u0219i \u0219ofran. Se adaug\u0103 sarmalele \u0219i se mai fierb aproximativ 20 de minute.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O alt\u0103 re\u021bet\u0103 asturian\u0103 ne indic\u0103 s\u0103 c\u0103lim ceap\u0103, s\u0103 ad\u0103ug\u0103m carnea de vit\u0103 dar \u0219i ciuperci (conserv\u0103) date prin ma\u0219ina de tocat. Se dau prin f\u0103in\u0103 \u0219i ou \u0219i se pr\u0103jesc p\u00e2n\u0103 devin aurii. Sosul se face astfel: usturoi \u0219i ulei de m\u0103sline blendate \u00eempreun\u0103 apoi trasnferate \u00een oal\u0103 \u0219i se adaug\u0103 o frunz\u0103 de dafin. \u00cen acest ulei se c\u0103lesc ceap\u0103 \u0219i ardei gras, se adaug\u0103 cimbru (sare \u0219i piper). C\u00e2nd se \u00eenmoaie se adaug\u0103 un pahar de cidru, se mai las\u0103 c\u00e2teva minute la fiert \u0219i apoi se adaug\u0103 sarmalele \u00eenc\u0103 aproximativ un sfert de or\u0103[2].  <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Site-ul enciclopediadegastronomia.es men\u021bioneaz\u0103 c\u0103 aceste re\u021bete sunt curios de locale (\u00eent\u00e2lnite doar \u00een regiunile men\u021bionate mai sus) \u00eei \u00eendeamn\u0103 pe buc\u0103tari \u0219i restauratori s\u0103 descopere \u0219i s\u0103 valorifice astfeld e preparate. Tot ei subliniaz\u0103 faptul c\u0103 vecinii francezi dar \u0219i cei din \u021b\u0103rile nordice g\u0103tesc frecvent \u201eChoux farc\u00eds\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Re\u021beta propus\u0103 de ei: varza se blan\u0219eaz\u0103; se face un sos din ceap\u0103 t\u0103iat\u0103 grosier, morcovi mici \u00eentregi, c\u0103lite \u00een ulei de m\u0103sline, se adaug\u0103 piper verde. C\u00e2nd se caramelizeaz\u0103 legumele se adaug\u0103 buc\u0103\u021bi mari de carne de vit\u0103, se sigileaz\u0103, \u0219i apoi se toarn\u0103 un pahar cu vin alb. Crati\u021ba se acoper\u0103 \u0219i ingredientele se fac la foc mic. C\u00e2nd carnea este g\u0103tit\u0103, o scoatem \u0219i o sf\u0103r\u00e2m\u0103m \u00een degete. Frunzele de varz\u0103 se umplu cu aceast\u0103 carne \u0219i pu\u021bin din sos. Sarmalele se pun la fiert \u00een restul de sos, al\u0103turi de morcovi, \u0219i se mai g\u0103tesc \u00eenc\u0103 vreo 30 de minute av\u00e2nd grij\u0103 s\u0103 mai turna\u021bi din sos pe deasupra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pont: morcovii din acest sos pot deveni garnitur\u0103 pentru o m\u00e2ncare mai insipid\u0103, sau cu napi fier\u021bi \u0219i castane glazurate care se potrivesc de minune cu aceast\u0103 tocan\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foto: <\/em>pixabay<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Surse<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

[1]<\/a>https:\/\/www.elcomercio.es\/gastronomia\/tres-generaciones-cuchara-20171102113209-nt.html<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.lne.es\/asturias\/2010\/05\/15\/adios-inventora-repollo-relleno-21340834.html<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

[2] http:\/\/lasrecetasdebe.blogspot.com\/2014\/09\/repollo-relleno-la-sidra.html<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Una dintre cele mai interesante re\u021bete de sarmale o g\u0103sim \u00een nord-vestul Spaniei (Asturia, Cantabria, Lugo), radical diferit\u0103 de tot ce mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit p\u00e2n\u0103 acum. Mai mult, aceasta beneficiaz\u0103 \u0219i de o istorie fabuloas\u0103, recent\u0103. S\u0103 treci prin Pola de Allande din Asturia \u0219i s\u0103 nu te opre\u0219ti la restaurantul La Nueva Allandesa ar fi […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":510,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38],"tags":[28],"class_list":["post-509","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-enciclopedia-sarmalelor","tag-sarmale"],"yoast_head":"\nSarmale iberice: o re\u021bet\u0103 inedit\u0103 din Asturia - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/07\/sarmale-iberice-o-reteta-inedita-din-asturia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sarmale iberice: o re\u021bet\u0103 inedit\u0103 din Asturia - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Una dintre cele mai interesante re\u021bete de sarmale o g\u0103sim \u00een nord-vestul Spaniei (Asturia, Cantabria, Lugo), radical diferit\u0103 de tot ce mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit p\u00e2n\u0103 acum. 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