{"id":523,"date":"2023-02-07T10:36:41","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T08:36:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=523"},"modified":"2023-03-16T04:40:34","modified_gmt":"2023-03-16T02:40:34","slug":"america-irlandezii-si-sarmalele-facute-din-resturile-de-la-masa-festiva-de-sf-patrick","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/02\/07\/america-irlandezii-si-sarmalele-facute-din-resturile-de-la-masa-festiva-de-sf-patrick\/","title":{"rendered":"America, irlandezii \u0219i sarmalele f\u0103cute din resturile de la masa festiv\u0103 de Sf. Patrick"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Am \u00eent\u00e2lnit deseori, at\u00e2t \u00een discursul istoric c\u00e2t \u0219i \u00een cel prezent, valen\u021ba sarmalelor de capacitare de resturilor deun\u0103zi. Nu cred \u00een teoria conform c\u0103reia ele au ap\u0103rut dintr-o astfel de nevoie, mai degrab\u0103 sunt adeptul unui traseu v\u0103dit de la folosirea frunzelor pe post de suport (pentru a evita contactul direct cu m\u00e2ncarea fierbinte), apoi a folosirii frunzelor ca paravan pentru focul direct, c\u0103rora li se adaug\u0103 atractivitatea gustativ\u0103 a vegetalelor procesate termic (descoperit\u0103 empiric) ca abia mai apoi s\u0103 intervin\u0103 cerebralitatea \u00eempachet\u0103rii m\u00e2nc\u0103rurilor \u00een \u00eenveli\u0219 vegetal (ap\u0103rate de foc, g\u0103tite \u00een abur, \u00een\u0103bu\u0219ite suc propriu pentru rezultat fraged \u0219i zemos), respectiv \u0219i consumul frunzelor bune. Pentru a le putea numi sarmale trebuie s\u0103 con\u0219tientiz\u0103m nevoia unei etape tehnologice \u00een g\u0103tire: trecerea de la suport la ingredient implicit, \u0219i de la foc direct la recipient. Nu putem numi sarmale orice toc\u0103tur\u0103 \u00een \u00eenveli\u0219 vegetal dac\u0103 ele nu sunt fierte\/coapte\/f\u0103cute la abur\/pr\u0103jite \u00eentr-un alt recipient expus la sursa de c\u0103ldur\u0103.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dar, odat\u0103 ap\u0103rute, sarmalele au dovedit uimitoarea proprietate de a transforma resturile neapetisante \u00eentr-un preparat m\u0103car comestibil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unul dintre cele mai bune exemple de adaptare a sarmalelor la nevoia imediat\u0103 de reciclare a resturilor de la masa (de data aceasta ceremonial\u0103) de ieri \u00eel \u00eent\u00e2lnim la irlandezii americani, \u00een ziua de dup\u0103 Sf\u00e2ntul Patrick.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Masa festiv\u0103 din ziua de 17 martie const\u0103 \u00een carne de vit\u0103, varz\u0103 \u0219i r\u0103d\u0103cinoase (de obicei morcovi, napi, cartofi) fierte. Tradi\u021bia pare a fi de dat\u0103 recent\u0103 din punct de vedere istoric, contur\u00e2ndu-se abia pe la jum\u0103tatea secolului XVIII \u0219i \u00eenceputul celui de al XIX-lea, \u0219i nu pe teritoriul Irlandei.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pe atunci imigran\u021bilor irlandezi din America le era greu s\u0103 g\u0103seasc\u0103 tradi\u021bionalul jambon \u0219i, \u00eencet, \u00eencet, l-au \u00eenlocuit cu pastrama de vit\u0103 (evreiasc\u0103, cea din America are o poveste rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 suprinz\u0103toare pe care o putei citi aici<\/a>  ) datorit\u0103 asem\u0103n\u0103rii de form\u0103, gust, consisten\u021b\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Totu\u0219i, \u0219i irlandezii consumau carne de vit\u0103 conservat\u0103, dar, la fel ca \u00een cazul nostru, vitele erau crescute pentru trac\u021biune \u0219i lapte. Astfel, fix ca la noi, produsele din vit\u0103 erau destinate exportului (Despre cum t\u0103iam sute de mii de vite pentru pastram\u0103 \u00een secolul XVII pute\u021bi citi aici<\/a> )<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pe timpuri combina\u021bia de vit\u0103 cu varz\u0103 nu era chiar o tradi\u021bie irlandez\u0103. De prin 1600 \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1825 irlandezii au fost cei mai mari exportatori de corned beef. Dup\u0103 1810, de c\u00e2nd cu descoperirea lui Pasteur, era trimis\u0103 \u00een conserve. Armata britanic\u0103 a fost astfel aprovizionat\u0103 \u00een timpul r\u0103zboaielor napoleoliene.  La jum\u0103tatea secolului al XIX-lea, cel mai mare furnizor de conserve pentru britanici era o firm\u0103 din Gala\u021bi. Ba chiar, din cauza acestora, s-a produs o celebr\u0103 tragedie artic\u0103 (vezi detalii aici <\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMetoda conserv\u0103rii c\u0103rnii este antic\u0103, pe c\u00e2nd oamenii au observant c\u0103 dac\u0103 pui destul\u0103 sare carnea nu se mai stric\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prima men\u021biune despre corned beef apare \u00een cartea Anatomy of Melancholy de Richard Burton, 1621: \u00abBeef\u2026 corned young of an ox<\/em>\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mul\u021bi irlandezi sus\u021bin c\u0103 tradi\u021bia c\u0103rnii de vit\u0103 cu varz\u0103 e similar\u0103 cu cea a spaghetelor cu chiftele, adic\u0103 importat\u0103. Al\u021bii sus\u021bin c\u0103 exist\u0103 o istorie \u00eendelungat\u0103, \u00eentins\u0103 pe secole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Argumente:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cartea lui Brid Mahon: Un t\u0103r\u00e2m al laptelui \u0219i mierii \u2013 povestea m\u00e2nc\u0103rurilor \u0219i b\u0103uturilor tradi\u021bionale irlandeze, noteaz\u0103 \u00een secolul al XIX-lea:  \u00ab\u00cen timp ce carnea de vit\u0103 irlandez\u0103 a fost \u00eentotdeauna remarcat\u0103 pentru aroma sa, carnea de vit\u0103 conservatp a fost la fel de savurat\u0103. Fiart\u0103 \u0219i servit\u0103 cu varz\u0103 verde \u0219i cartofi f\u0103ino\u0219i, a fost considerat\u0103 un fel de m\u00e2ncare epicurian, care trebuie m\u00e2ncat la Halloween, de Cr\u0103ciun, de Sf. Patrick, la nun\u021bi \u0219i priveghiuri, tradi\u021bie care a fost dus\u0103 \u00een Lumea Nou\u0103 de emigran\u021bii din secolele XVIII \u0219i XIX. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een prezent, carnea de vit\u0103 \u0219i varza sunt servite \u00een ziua Sf\u00e2ntului Patrick \u0219i la Ziua Recuno\u0219tin\u021bei \u00een p\u0103r\u021bi din America de Nord.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Baconul, corned beef, c\u00e2rna\u021bii, budica sunt men\u021bionate \u00een The Vision of Mac Conlinne, o poveste din secolul al XII-lea care descrie \u0219i condimentele servite cu carne\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Conform Malachi McCormick \u2013 autorul c\u0103r\u021bii Irish Country Cooking (\u00een articolul The Troubles That Irish Food Has Seen, New York Times, 14 martie 1990), carnea de vit\u0103 cu varz\u0103 este o tradi\u021bie pur american\u0103. Colcannon (cartofi noi fier\u021bi amesteca\u021bi cu varz\u0103 alb\u0103 fiart\u0103, praz fiert sau ceap\u0103 fiart\u0103 la care se adaug\u0103 unt, lapte \u0219i usturoi s\u0103lbatic) este mai probabil s\u0103 fie considerat felul de m\u00e2ncare na\u021bional al Irlandei.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stephen McFarland, autorul c\u0103r\u021bii Just Desserts, care lucreaz\u0103 cu Neven McGuire un buc\u0103tar celebru din Irlanda spune c\u0103 Corned Beef and Cabbage este un fel de m\u00e2ncare popular \u00een epoca modern\u0103 din Irlanda \u0219i deseori servit cu Champ \u2013 un piure specific.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Baconul, corned beef, c\u00e2rna\u021bii, budica sunt men\u021bionate \u00een The Vision of Mac Conlinne, o poveste din secolul al XII-lea care descrie \u0219i condimentele servite cu carne\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Conform Malachi McCormick \u2013 autorul c\u0103r\u021bii Irish Country Cooking (\u00een articolul The Troubles That Irish Food Has Seen, New York Times, 14 martie 1990), carnea de vit\u0103 cu varz\u0103 este o tradi\u021bie pur american\u0103. Colcannon (cartofi noi fier\u021bi amesteca\u021bi cu varz\u0103 alb\u0103 fiart\u0103, praz fiert sau ceap\u0103 fiart\u0103 la care se adaug\u0103 unt, lapte \u0219i usturoi s\u0103lbatic) este mai probabil s\u0103 fie considerat felul de m\u00e2ncare na\u021bional al Irlandei.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stephen McFarland, autorul c\u0103r\u021bii Just Desserts, care lucreaz\u0103 cu Neven McGuire un buc\u0103tar celebru din Irlanda spune c\u0103 Corned Beef and Cabbage este un fel de m\u00e2ncare popular \u00een epoca modern\u0103 din Irlanda \u0219i deseori servit cu Champ \u2013 un piure specific.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deoarece vacile erau folosite mai degrab\u0103 pentru lapte dec\u00e2t pentru carne \u00een vremurile s\u0103race din Irlanda, carnea de vit\u0103 era o delicates\u0103 destinat\u0103 regilor. Era mai obi\u0219nuit ca ei pun\u0103 pe masa de s\u0103rb\u0103toare ceea ce numesc Gammon (jambon crud-uscat) sau sl\u0103nin\u0103 (neafumat\u0103)\u201d[1]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00centr-un alt articol care dezbate problema na\u021bionaliz\u0103rii ori ba a preparatului[2]<\/a> se citeaz\u0103 un text al unui comentator din subsolul unui articol despre imigran\u021bii din Queens intitulat Curry a \u00eenlocuit carnea de vit\u0103 \u0219i varz\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBunica mea a fost nedumerit\u0103 c\u0103 americanii asociaz\u0103 carnea de vit\u0103 cu irlandezii. \u00cen Irlanda, majoritatea oamenilor au m\u00e2ncat porc. Mult\u0103 \u0219unc\u0103, mul\u021bi c\u00e2rna\u021bi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2026 Corned beef a devenit popular\u0103 \u00een barurile din New York, ca m\u00e2ncare de pr\u00e2nz. Barurile au oferit un \u201epr\u00e2nz gratuit\u201d muncitorilor din construc\u021bii irlandezi care construiau NYC la \u00eenceputul secolului al XX-lea. Dar nu exist\u0103 un pr\u00e2nz gratuit. Trebuia s\u0103 cumperi c\u00e2teva beri sau whisky pentru a-l ob\u021bine. A\u0219a s-a perpetuat povestea cu \u201eirlandez\u0103\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consternat autorul articolului a trimis acel r\u0103spuns unei prietene din Dublin. \u201eFiecare cuv\u00e2nt din aceast\u0103 postare este pur\u0103 liter\u0103 de lege\u201d, a r\u0103spuns ea. „Nu m\u00e2nc\u0103m NICIODAT\u0102 carne de vit\u0103 \u0219i varz\u0103. Ba chiar ne batem joc de americani \u0219i de dragostea lor bizar\u0103 pentru aceast\u0103 carne”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dup\u0103 masa festiv\u0103 de Sf. Patrick ce resturi puteau s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103? A\u021bi ghicit: carne de vit\u0103 (de multe ori din conserv\u0103), varz\u0103, r\u0103d\u0103cinoase. EI bine, pare c\u0103 de aici p\u00e2n\u0103 la sarmale nu a fost dec\u00e2t un simplu pas.  Hai s\u0103 vedem ni\u0219te re\u021bete<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acum s\u0103 revenim la sarmale ?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kate \u0219i Melinda sunt din Maryland folosesc varz\u0103 Savoy op\u0103rit\u0103, carne de vit\u0103 fiart\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 se pot scoate f\u00e2\u0219ii cu furculi\u021ba, piure de p\u0103str\u00e2nac, morcov \u0219i cartofi. Pe frunza de varz\u0103 se \u00eentinde un strat de piure iar \u00een mijloc se pun f\u00e2\u0219iile de vit\u0103. Sarmalele se coc \u00een tav\u0103 pe un strat de piure[3]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autorul Lorac de pe food.com (\u0219tiu doar c\u0103 s-a mutat \u00een Arizona de teste un deceniu) ne ofer\u0103 o alt\u0103 re\u021bet\u0103 \u2013 mai spre clasic \u2013 numit\u0103: sarmale irlandeze. \u00cen compozi\u021bie avem corned beef, apio \u0219i ceap\u0103 c\u0103lit\u0103, orez brun prefiert, mu\u0219tar brun picant \u0219i un ou. Sarmalele se coc \u00een sup\u0103 de vit\u0103 amestecat\u0103 cu bere (nu se precizeaz\u0103 de care). Ulterior se scoate o can\u0103 din sos, se tope\u0219te un \u00een tigaie, se adaug\u0103 f\u0103in\u0103 pentru r\u00e2nta\u0219 \u0219i se sub\u021biaz\u0103 cu sosul din tav\u0103. La final, noul sos se toarn\u0103 peste preparat. Sarmalele se servesc cu mu\u0219tar suplimentar[4]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sarah Ozimek spune c\u0103 pasiunea ei pentru m\u00e2ncare e legat\u0103 de mo\u0219tenirea cultural\u0103 de la bunica ei franco-canadian\u0103. Men\u021bioneaz\u0103 clar c\u0103 preparatul reprezint\u0103 o oportunitate perfect\u0103 de a folosi resturile de Sf. Patrick. Varza verde op\u0103rit\u0103. Buc\u0103\u021bi de corded beef, resturi de piure, p\u0103trunjel verde, mu\u0219tar \u0219i un ou. Se fierb \u00eentr-un r\u00e2nta\u0219 din f\u0103in\u0103 \u0219i sup\u0103 de vit\u0103 turnat peste. La final se presar\u0103 br\u00e2nz\u0103 elve\u021bian\u0103[5]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O alt\u0103 re\u021bet\u0103 ne prezint\u0103 o compozi\u021bie bogat\u0103 \u00een legume. Folosim carne de vit\u0103, ceap\u0103, usturoi, sfecl\u0103 ro\u0219ie \u0219i morcovi date prin blender, conopid\u0103 tocat\u0103 de dimensiunea orezului, p\u0103trunjel \u0219i m\u0103rar proaspete. Se ruleaz\u0103 \u0219i se coc \u00een sup\u0103 de vit\u0103[6]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Guinness-ul nu avea cum s\u0103 lipseasc\u0103 din ecua\u021bie<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Amy, autor pe myworldsimplified.com, ne propune o altfel de re\u021bet\u0103: carnea de vit\u0103 asezonat\u0103 cu plicul de condimente care o \u00eenso\u021be\u0219te de obicei e g\u0103tit\u0103 \u00een crockpot \u00een ap\u0103 \u0219i Guinness Extra Stout. Cartofii t\u0103ia\u021bi sferturi se g\u0103tesc \u00een lichidul r\u0103mas de la vit\u0103. Frunzele se crude se umplu cu ba\u0219tona\u0219e de morcov crud, foaie de ceap\u0103 galben\u0103 \u0219i carne. Se coc p\u00e2n\u0103 devin fragede \u0219i se servesc cu acei cartofi fier\u021bi[7]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tammy din Dallas \u2013 sarmale irlandeze cu sos de Guinness cu mu\u0219tar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Se taie carne de vit\u0103 g\u0103tit\u0103 \u00een f\u00e2\u0219ii \u0219i cubule\u021be. Se face un piure din cartofi ro\u0219ii, praz (fiert at\u00e2t partea alb\u0103 c\u00e2t \u0219i frunzele) \u0219i sup\u0103 de pui. Varza se bla\u0219eaz\u0103 \u0219i se umple cu compozi\u021bia format\u0103 din amestecul de carne, piure \u0219i sos f\u0103cut din maionez\u0103, mu\u0219tar brun iute \u0219i bere Guinness. Se coc \u0219i se consum\u0103 cu ce a\u021bi p\u0103strat din sosul pe baz\u0103 de bere[8]<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Surse:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[1]<\/a> http:\/\/www.kitchenproject.com\/history\/CornedBeef.htm <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

[2]<\/a> https:\/\/www.salon.com\/2010\/03\/17\/st_patricks_day_corned_beef_and_cabbage_irish\/<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[3]<\/a> https:\/\/www.homemadeinterest.com\/corned-beef-cabbage-rolls\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

[4]<\/a> https:\/\/www.food.com\/recipe\/irish-cabbage-rolls-83497<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[5]<\/a> https:\/\/www.curiouscuisiniere.com\/corned-beef-cabbage-rolls\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

[6]<\/a> https:\/\/www.amymyersmd.com\/recipe\/irish-stuffed-cabbage-wraps\/<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[7]<\/a> http:\/\/myworldsimplified.com\/irish-cabbage-rolls\/<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[8]<\/a> https:\/\/www.justapinch.com\/recipes\/main-course\/beef\/irish-cabbage-rolls-with-guiness-mustard-sauce.html<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Am \u00eent\u00e2lnit deseori, at\u00e2t \u00een discursul istoric c\u00e2t \u0219i \u00een cel prezent, valen\u021ba sarmalelor de capacitare de resturilor deun\u0103zi. Nu cred \u00een teoria conform c\u0103reia ele au ap\u0103rut dintr-o astfel de nevoie, mai degrab\u0103 sunt adeptul unui traseu v\u0103dit de la folosirea frunzelor pe post de suport (pentru a evita contactul direct cu m\u00e2ncarea fierbinte), […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":524,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-523","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-enciclopedia-sarmalelor"],"yoast_head":"\nAmerica, irlandezii \u0219i sarmalele f\u0103cute din resturile de la masa festiv\u0103 de Sf. 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