{"id":940,"date":"2023-05-07T05:44:55","date_gmt":"2023-05-07T02:44:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/?p=940"},"modified":"2023-05-07T05:44:56","modified_gmt":"2023-05-07T02:44:56","slug":"identitatea-gastronomica-romaneasca-prin-zamuri-postfata-la-cartea-lui-mircea-groza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/05\/07\/identitatea-gastronomica-romaneasca-prin-zamuri-postfata-la-cartea-lui-mircea-groza\/","title":{"rendered":"Identitatea gastronomic\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 prin z\u0103muri – postfa\u021b\u0103 la cartea lui Mircea Groza"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Editura GastroArt \u0219i C\u0103rture\u0219ti.ro anun\u021b\u0103 \u00eenceperea campaniei de precomenzi pentru una dintre cele mai a\u0219teptate c\u0103r\u021bi culinare rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti, volumul Z\u0102MURI \u2013 supe, zupe \u0219i n\u0103creli (re\u021bete ardelene\u0219ti din b\u0103tr\u00e2ni) semnat\u0103 de maestrul Mircea Groza. Este primul volum dintr-o serie de autor dedicat\u0103 cercet\u0103torului s\u0103l\u0103jean, editura anun\u021b\u00e2nd c\u0103 deja se lucreaz\u0103 la cea de a doua antologie de re\u021bete dedicat\u0103 topalelor \u0219i tocanelo<\/strong>r. Volumul con\u021bine 182 de re\u021bete de supe\/ciorbe, bogat ilustrate, culese \u00een peste 40 de ani de c\u0103tre Mircea Groza de la b\u0103tr\u00e2nii din satele s\u0103l\u0103jene. Re\u021betele sunt scrise \u00een limbaj regional, o transliterare fonetic\u0103, prin care autorul \u00eencearc\u0103 s\u0103 conserve at\u00e2t patrimoniul culinar c\u00e2t \u0219i specificul zonei. Volumul beneficiaz\u0103 \u0219i de un glosar cu sute de termeni explica\u021bi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mircea Groza este unul dintre cei mai renumi\u021bi culeg\u0103tori de re\u021bete vechi de la noi, arheolog culinar \u0219i mentor pentru mul\u021bi buc\u0103tari. Activitatea sa a fost remarcat\u0103 de autorit\u0103\u021bile locale \u0219i centrale, asocia\u021biile de buc\u0103tari na\u021bionale \u0219i interna\u021bionale \u0219i ONG-uri fiind recompensat cu zeci de premii de excelen\u021b\u0103 pentru activitate. Volumul poate\u00a0fi comandat aici<\/a>\u00a0sau click pe copert\u0103<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Am scris postfa\u021ba acestui volum \u00een calitate de editor, prieten \u0219i entuziast al m\u00e2nc\u0103rurilor tradi\u021bionale: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am fost \u00eentrebat deseori, \u00een ace\u0219ti aproape trei ani de c\u00e2nd lucr\u0103m la carte, de ce a\u0219 edita un astfel de volum, care, la prima vedere, este traductibil. Majoritatea cov\u00e2r\u0219itoare a celor care m-au chestionat sunt din Bucure\u0219ti sau stabili\u021bi aici. \u00cei \u00een\u021beleg perfect. O carte cu re\u021bete culese de la b\u0103tr\u00e2ni din satele din S\u0103laj, \u00eentr-un grai abund\u00e2nd de regionalisme, transcrise fonetic este intrigant\u0103 \u0219i, mai ales, intimidant\u0103. \u00cen timp ce Jamie Oliver, de exemplu, \u00ee\u0219i bate constant recordul de simplificare (cu 7, cu 5, cu 3 ingrediente, \u00een 30, \u00een 15 minute \u0219.a.m.d.), Mircea Groza le complic\u0103. Iar noi nu mai avem nici timp, nici r\u0103bdare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen calitate de editor nu am fost niciodat\u0103 sceptic \u00een ceea ce prive\u0219te aceast\u0103 carte \u0219i, \u00een afar\u0103 de \u00eembog\u0103\u021birea portofoliului GastroArt, chiar cred \u00een succesul ei. E adev\u0103rat c\u0103 sunt antrenat pentru astfel de lecturi cu glosar \u00een\u0219irat pe multe pagini, dar st\u0103p\u00e2nesc mai bine arhaismele dec\u00e2t regionalismele. Acum, dup\u0103 ce am citit cartea de c\u00e2teva ori cred c\u0103 puteam s\u0103 scriu acest text fix precum Mircea Groza. Dup\u0103 doar c\u00e2teva re\u021bete reu\u0219e\u0219ti s\u0103 te deprinzi cu limbajul \u0219i deja nu mai trebuie s\u0103 consul\u021bi glosarul at\u00e2t de frecvent. \u00cen sutele de conversa\u021bii cu Mircea Groza nu cred c\u0103 l-am \u00eentrebat vreodat\u0103 dac\u0103 nu ar vrea s\u0103 renun\u021be la acest stil sau m\u0103car dac\u0103 nu ar dori s\u0103 mai elimine, pe ici-colo, din exprim\u0103rile care \u00eengreuneaz\u0103 lectura. Nu mi-am dorit s\u0103 o fac mai \u201ecomercial\u0103\u201d. Am respectat dorin\u021ba autorului de \u00eencerca s\u0103 redea \u0219i o parte din atmosfera locului, de a \u201eoraliza\u201d re\u021betele. Este un volum adresat cititorului dispus s\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i foloseasc\u0103 mai mul\u021bi receptori: lectura este destinat\u0103 mai mult auzului, fotografiile sunt pentru v\u0103z iar re\u021betele pentru papile. Este diferit fa\u021b\u0103 de un op de re\u021bete clasic care are ca unic scop utilitatea. Este, de fapt, vorba despre \u201eS\u0103lajul \u00eentr-un blid cu zam\u0103\u201d \u0219i mai pu\u021bin despre o carte dedicat\u0103 ciorbelor \u0219i supelor locale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lipsesc cu des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219ire cantit\u0103\u021bile exacte, timpii \u0219i temperaturile de g\u0103tire. Mai pu\u021bin\u0103 \u0219tiin\u021b\u0103 exact\u0103 \u0219i mai mult\u0103 ochiometrie, de\u0219i, pentru mul\u021bi dintre informatorii din carte \u201ef\u0103in\u0103 c\u00e2t trebe\u201d sau \u201edup\u0103 gust\u201d sunt mult mai relevante dec\u00e2t gramajele clare. Nu de alta, dar gusturile difer\u0103 a\u0219a cum nici f\u0103inurile nu sunt standard. Se folosesc ingredientele din gr\u0103din\u0103 \u0219i carnea animalelor din curte, dar func\u021bioneaz\u0103 \u0219i cu cele din pia\u021b\u0103. \u0218i autorul a ref\u0103cut toate aceste re\u021bete, la bloc, la aragaz cu ap\u0103 de la robinet \u0219i verdea\u021b\u0103 cump\u0103rat\u0103 din ora\u0219.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sincer, \u00eenc\u0103 nu sunt l\u0103murit de ce \u00een acest volum avem doar 182 de re\u021bete de z\u0103muri din cele aproximativ 400 culese de Mircea Groza \u00een aproape 50 de ani de c\u00e2nd se preocup\u0103 de treaba asta. \u0218tiu, \u00eens\u0103, c\u0103 toate sunt doar din jude\u021bul S\u0103laj. Re\u021bete locale. Acum calcula\u021bi poten\u021bialul pentru \u00eentreaga \u021bar\u0103. Probabil c\u0103 Mircea Groza ar fi trebuit s\u0103 fie clonat \u00een fiecare jude\u021b. Exist\u0103 o bog\u0103\u021bie incomensurabil\u0103 a re\u021betarului na\u021bional pe care doar o intuim. M\u0103 bucur\u0103 nespus c\u0103 \u00een ultimii ani au ap\u0103rut din ce \u00een ce mai multe proiecte de valorificare a patrimoniului gastronomic local, c\u0103 din ce \u00een ce mai mul\u021bi oameni sunt preocupa\u021bi de cercetarea tezaurului culinar. Cu fiecare b\u0103tr\u00e2n care se stinge dispare c\u00e2te o carte de bucate \u0219i e p\u0103cat pentru c\u0103 aceste re\u021bete nu au doar valoare muzeal\u0103. Cercet\u0103ri at\u00e2t de temeinice precum cele ale lui Mircea Groza nu prea exist\u0103, iar cele care exist\u0103 nu sunt prea cunoscute. Volumul al III-lea al Atlasului Etnografic Rom\u00e2n din anii \u201970, cel destinat gastronomiei a fost tip\u0103rit \u00eentr-un tiraj at\u00e2t de mic \u00eenc\u00e2t e Sf\u00e2ntul Grall al cercet\u0103torilor. Remarc, aici, studiile recente f\u0103cute de regretatul profesor Vintil\u0103 Mih\u0103ilescu al\u0103turi de Bogdan Iancu \u0219i Monica Stroe. Musai de men\u021bionat culegerea de re\u021bete a lui Radu Anton Roman, cel care a \u0219i reu\u0219it s\u0103 fac\u0103 din buc\u0103t\u0103ria tradi\u021bional\u0103 un show tv cu priz\u0103 la public. Remarcabile \u0219i eforturile lui Mihai Uic\u0103 (disp\u0103rut vremelnic dintre noi) \u0219i ale Claudiei Romana-Rista, ambii ocup\u00e2ndu-se \u00een special de Banat, dar \u0219i ale Simonei Laz\u0103r care, \u00een afar\u0103 de c\u0103r\u021bile scrise sau \u00eengrijite, a reu\u0219it s\u0103 men\u021bin\u0103 interesul publicului prin articole de profil \u00een ziare cu tiraje imense. Remarcabile sunt \u0219i fotografiile lui R\u0103zvan Voiculescu din seriile de albume \u201eBuc\u0103t\u0103ria hoinar\u0103\u201d \u0219i \u201eRost \u2013 Esen\u021be, Gusturi \u0219i St\u0103ri Rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti\u201d care redau perfect atmosfera aproape magic\u0103 a celui\/celei care g\u0103te\u0219te. C\u00e2teva dintre fotografiile cu Mircea Groza din acest volum sunt publicate prin amabiliatea artistului. Lista ar continua cu al\u021bii ale c\u0103ror nume ar trebui men\u021bionate aici, dar \u00eemi e pur \u0219i simplu fric\u0103 s\u0103 nu ofensez pe cineva printr-o omisiune nepremeditat\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Probabil o s\u0103 observa\u021bi c\u0103 exist\u0103 re\u021bete asem\u0103n\u0103toare. Ei bine, aici e tot schepsisul pove\u0219tii gastronomice. Specificul micro-local, local, regional sau na\u021bional \u021bine de detalii. Ciorba de fasole cu afum\u0103tur\u0103 \u0219i mult cimbru a copil\u0103riei mele din sudul Moldovei nu e totuna cu ciorba de fasole cu afum\u0103tur\u0103 \u0219i m\u0103rar uscat pe care am m\u00e2ncat-o la Timi\u0219oara \u0219i nici cu ciorba de fasole cu afum\u0103tur\u0103 \u0219i tarhon din Ardeal. \u0218i nu cea de fasole cu midii \u00eenfulecat\u0103 la Roma. Baza e aceea\u0219i, gustul difer\u0103. \u0218i noi suntem oameni, apoi europeni, rom\u00e2ni, moldoveni, vr\u00e2nceni, iar unii sunt din Lep\u0219a, ai lui Gheorghe din deal \u0219i doar unul e Costel al lui Gheorghe din deal din Lep\u0219a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Volumul acesta este primul dintr-o serie g\u00e2ndit\u0103 \u00eendelung. Urmeaz\u0103 cele despre tocane\/topale, sarmale\/piro\u0219te, deserturi \u0219i mai vedem. Probabil vor exista \u0219i variante traduse (sic!) \u00een limbaj comun, ba chiar \u0219i o Enciclopedie a m\u00e2nc\u0103rurilor S\u0103l\u0103jene. S\u0103n\u0103tate \u0219i for\u021b\u0103 de munc\u0103 s\u0103 fie. Am \u00eenceput cu z\u0103murile \u00eentr-o ordine fireasc\u0103 a cronologiei felurilor de m\u00e2ncare aduse la mas\u0103. Dar nu e singurul motiv.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ele ne sunt cu adev\u0103rat identitare. Le ignor\u0103m importan\u021ba fiind cople\u0219i\u021bi de firescul lor. Nu vedem p\u0103durea de copaci. Sunt o constant\u0103 a meselor cotidiene, fie c\u0103 vorbim de urban sau de rural. Mai mult, parc\u0103 dintotdeauna, au avut o tripl\u0103 menire: ast\u00e2mp\u0103rarea foamei de zi cu zi, iar, spre exemplu, supa limpede de g\u0103in\u0103 are rol ritual \u0219i era nelipsit\u0103 la masa de duminic\u0103 de la pr\u00e2nz, de dup\u0103 liturghie, cea mai important\u0103 mas\u0103 a s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2nii. Asta dac\u0103 familia \u0219i-o permitea, dar oricum r\u0103m\u00e2nea aspira\u021bional\u0103 \u0219i pentru p\u0103turile s\u0103race. \u00cen al treilea r\u00e2nd z\u0103murile calde, fie de legume, fie de carne, au rol medicinal \u0219i au fost\/sunt \u00eenc\u0103 recomandate celor c\u0103zu\u021bi la pat pentru \u00eentremare. Ei bine, acest triplu rol transform\u0103 acest preparat \u00een chintesen\u021ba buc\u0103t\u0103riei tradi\u021bionale. Iar dac\u0103 aceste argumente nu sunt suficiente, plusez: este m\u00e2ncarea cu cele mai multe re\u021bete diferite, cu cele mai multe varia\u021biuni la tem\u0103, de pe teritoriul Rom\u00e2niei. Nu exist\u0103 alt preparat care s\u0103 foloseasc\u0103 \u00eentregul arsenal de resurse disponibile: orice legum\u0103, buruian\u0103, fel de carne \u0219i chiar fruct \u00ee\u0219i g\u0103se\u0219te loc \u00een c\u00e2te o re\u021bet\u0103. De la ierburile din flora spontan\u0103 la vi\u0219ine, de la ma\u021bele de miel la agurid\u0103. Faptul c\u0103 \u00een restaurante nu g\u0103sim dec\u00e2t maximum zece feluri este consecin\u021ba direct\u0103 a standardiz\u0103rii comuniste, a incompeten\u021bei sau ignoran\u021bei unor buc\u0103tari \u0219i patroni, dar \u0219i a conservatorismului clientului rom\u00e2n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu \u00eemi r\u0103m\u00e2ne dec\u00e2t s\u0103 sper c\u0103 aceast\u0103 carte v\u0103 este pe plac \u0219i chiar folos iar la final s\u0103 \u00eei mul\u021bumesc lui Mircea Groza \u2013 \u00eenc\u0103 declarat oficial Tezaur Uman Viu – \u00a0pentru \u00eencredere, prietenie \u0219i mai ales pentru p\u0103lincile alea incredibile pe care mi le mai trimite din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd. La mai multe! \u0218i c\u0103r\u021bi \u0219i p\u0103linci ????<\/p>\n\n\n\n

credit foto: \u00a0\u00a9\u00a0Ozgur Coskun<\/a>\u00a0|\u00a0Dreamstime.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Editura GastroArt \u0219i C\u0103rture\u0219ti.ro anun\u021b\u0103 \u00eenceperea campaniei de precomenzi pentru una dintre cele mai a\u0219teptate c\u0103r\u021bi culinare rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti, volumul Z\u0102MURI \u2013 supe, zupe \u0219i n\u0103creli (re\u021bete ardelene\u0219ti din b\u0103tr\u00e2ni) semnat\u0103 de maestrul Mircea Groza. Este primul volum dintr-o serie de autor dedicat\u0103 cercet\u0103torului s\u0103l\u0103jean, editura anun\u021b\u00e2nd c\u0103 deja se lucreaz\u0103 la cea de a doua […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":941,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-940","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-stiri"],"yoast_head":"\nIdentitatea gastronomic\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 prin z\u0103muri - postfa\u021b\u0103 la cartea lui Mircea Groza - Cosmin Dragomir<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cosmindragomir.ro\/ro\/2023\/05\/07\/identitatea-gastronomica-romaneasca-prin-zamuri-postfata-la-cartea-lui-mircea-groza\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Identitatea gastronomic\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 prin z\u0103muri - postfa\u021b\u0103 la cartea lui Mircea Groza - Cosmin Dragomir\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Editura GastroArt \u0219i C\u0103rture\u0219ti.ro anun\u021b\u0103 \u00eenceperea campaniei de precomenzi pentru una dintre cele mai a\u0219teptate c\u0103r\u021bi culinare rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti, volumul Z\u0102MURI \u2013 supe, zupe \u0219i n\u0103creli (re\u021bete ardelene\u0219ti din b\u0103tr\u00e2ni) semnat\u0103 de maestrul Mircea Groza. 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