mNorth Macedonia is the land of statues and grills. For statues go to Skopje. Over a thousand statues adorn the capital of North Macedonia, most of them appeared through the "Skopje 2014" program launched in 2010, an investment of approximately 200 million euros (but which unofficially would reach one billion) supported by the Government and local authorities through which wanted not only the reconstruction of the city - still unrecovered after the devastating earthquake of 1963 when it was rebuilt with aid from 35 countries - but also the beautification of the city and its transformation into a destination that would impress tourists. I recommend this investigative reporting by Dollores Benezice which details these aspects. So, following this rebranding, the city was beautified with hundreds of statues, most of them ugly, some even hideous.
After you leave the Capital, the statues diminish, and the country is left with the other emblem: the barbecue. Most restaurants have, on the facade, a small annex-aquarium with a tall chimney and colorful windows. There's the grill specially made to be inspected from the outside by any indecisive customer. There dares the anonymous barbecuer, with features blurred by smoke and fingers yellowed by Vegeta. Simple sausages of many kinds and variations on the theme: wrapped in bacon or filled with cheese, garlic, płescavițe and ćevapi of all varieties. The menu is cloned by most pubs. The exception is one of my favorites, in Skopje, where the entrepreneur told me that he cooks traditional dishes, but not from the oven, but from the grill, as you find on all the roads. I will write about this pub another time, more leisurely, just as I will also write about Ohrid, my favorite place in the Balkans.
Tavče Gravče recipe
ingredients
500 g dried white beans (Tetovac variety)
A large onion, chopped
2-3 cloves of garlic, minced
One carrot, diced
One red pepper, chopped
Two tablespoons of sunflower oil or olive oil
Two spoons of flour
A teaspoon of sweet paprika
A spoonful of tomato paste
A tablespoon of dried mint (optional)
A spoonful of dried thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
A tablespoon of fresh parsley, chopped
A liter of water
Instructions
Rinse the beans and soak them in cold water overnight. The next day, drain the water and boil the beans in clean water until almost tender but not fully cooked (about 45 minutes). Drain and set aside.
In a large frying pan, heat the oil and sauté the onion, garlic, carrot and pepper until soft and slightly golden. Add the flour and paprika, mixing well to combine and form a light roux. Add the tomato paste and continue to mix. Slowly pour in the water, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add salt, pepper, thyme and mint (if using), and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently until thickened to a thick sauce.
In a clay pan or other ovenproof dish, combine the cooked beans with the prepared sauce. Stir gently to distribute evenly. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the tray in the oven and bake for around 30-40 minutes, until the beans are fully cooked and the sauce has thickened and the surface is lightly golden. Remove the gravče tray from the oven and let it rest for a few minutes before serving.
Sprinkle fresh chopped parsley on top and serve warm with fresh bread or pickles.
The variety of beans used in the authentic tavče gravče recipe is known as tattoo artist, named after the city of Tetovo in North Macedonia, through which we also walked a bit, especially in the market, where Vegeta is also sold at the stalls with bee honey, just in search of the star ingredient.
Tetovac beans have large, oval-shaped beans that become creamy after cooking, a soft and buttery texture, ideal for absorbing flavors from sauces, a slightly sweet taste that goes well with the spices and herbs used in tavče gravče. In the absence of beans Tetovac, other varieties of white beans such as Cannellini or Navy beans can be used as a substitute. However, the final texture and taste may vary slightly.
On many menus you will find the combo option: tavče gravče + roast meat. And since no Romanian was surprised by the combination of sausages and beans, see how many ignorant people made fun of the plate with beans + ćevapi (aka small). My picture, taken in Ohrid, was also "borrowed" by the Ursărie Academy, which "laughed" it on the Internet to the delight of a people who do not understand cultural differences. Small ears with beans, who ever mentioned it? Well, a whole people plus other Balkan nations. In the end, even the little ones are still sausages without ends, or the sausages are little ones stuffed in the intestines.
If we traditionally eat the little ones with bread and mustard, possibly with fried potatoes or, more rarely, with hot peppers soaked in salt (greetings Ciprian Muntele), their Balkan brothers (ćevapi or diminutive ćevapčići) or Ottomans (kebab & skewer köfte) have many other garnishes, often indispensable or implicit. I wrote more about this in this article: a little history of the little and the little. And in the case detailed in this article, I also recommend Belolučene Paprike, a salad of baked peppers with garlic that I wrote here.
Photo Skopje: © Neil Bussey | Dreamstime.com
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